VT Commodore stalls
Hi guys got a strange one here have a 98 VT v6 commodore now the thing drives great starts first kick now to the problem i pick my son up from work sometimes i have to wait half hour 45 minutes for him now before i could sit there with engine idling all that time with air con on no problem for the last 2 weeks if i sit idling for about 15 minutes it stalls and wont start straight away if i leave it for 5 minutes she fires back up again as if nothing happened all temps are fine so who has any idea what the culprit might be because its got me stumped
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
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It sounds like heat soak, long idling, building heat and resistance. After being off to cool down she comes back to life.
#1 Crank sensor..change it, they are known to cause stalling problems.
#2 Check your coil pack wiring....connectors could have dirt or coil pack/ignition wires arcing.
# fuel filter/pump....could be blocked filter or fuel pump on the way out.
Very hard to diagnose without seeing the car...checking your ecu for error codes may help.
Sounds like its infected from Forditise are you sure it hasnt been parked to close to a Fraud sorry Ford?
Sounds like lack of fuel.
Taking 5 mins to start again or leaving it for 5 mins before it will start again I would say look at the immobilizer.
Try Engaging it, count to 10 and disengaging it next time.
God luck
OK something else i have noticed is fuel consumption seems to have shot up a bit as well and maybe it also seems to be down slightly on power i noticed on the trip computer with the ltrs per 100klms before on straight road would sit around 7.5 now same section its at 9.8
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
Ive just been through roughly the same thing as you, and without going into detail here's a list of what I replaced.
Check your engine fault codes (paperclip on pins 5/6 under dash - google for the table - it's available)
CAS - crank angle sensor - most likely culprit. Just replace it anyway
DFI module (sits under coil pack) - replace, or at least test integrity of the plug - a known culprit !
Oil pressure sensor - just replace it, it's only cheap, and doesn't show a fault code - I believe this to be my problem that cost me about $1200 to find
You could take your car to a mechanic and get all this done for around $350 I reckon and would almost certainly solve your problem.
The other test for the CAS is after it stalls pour cold water on the CAS (front of engine) and the car should restart.
Good luck !
Cheers.
When I was a kid, I used to have an imaginary friend. I thought he went everywhere with me. I could talk to him and he could hear me, and he could grant me wishes and stuff too. But then I grew up, and stopped going to church.
most likely the crank angle sensor when it plays up pour water on the sensor see if it starts straight up they play up all the time when they get hot
thanks guys gives me a few options to follow the crank angle sensor is a likely candidate by the sounds of it getting hot then once cool going again makes sense because when car is being driven it is fine i Can drive 400 klms and no problem only when it is idling that the problem arises will google how to check the engine fault codes never done it on the commy before
much appreciated guys will let you know how i go on the weekend
cheers puca
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
Had similar problems with my VT.
Damn near killed the starter motor whenever it got hot, shut down and wouldn't start.
Turned over ok but no ignition.
CAS was the culprit - known issue with the VTs.
Poor a can of cold beer on it and good to go but what a waste of good beer.
Around $120 buys you a new "improved" one from any GMH dealer.
Takes about 10 minutes to install.
Crappy idling and fuel consumption can be caused by coking up in the throttle body.
There is a an idle solenoid which opens at idle and allows enough air to feed in to maintain
idling - unless it's blocked of course.
As the user name says
I have recently put the complete guts of a VT into my FJ75 Troopy
and had a lot of probs like you say
stalling after idaling for a while sounds and poor econamy...
sounds like the o2 sensers as this will start on default but as it trys to
calibrate during idal it will stall get these checked out but if you can idal for
for upto an hour you got lucky as holden state that it was not desined for this.
hope this helps any way..
ps get your key but checked it can a can of worms when the batts going flat..
well i finally got to the bottom of this one after being in Sydney the other week caught in traffic car kept dieing after it idled for 2-3 minutes changed the crank angle sensor no change checked engine management codes all good had a thought about it with a beer now would drive 300 400 klms no problem sit in traffic idling and die wait 10 min and go hmmm lack of air flow over engine
COIL pack changed the sucker this week and will idle for 2 hours with air con on now
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
Thats the second one mentioned tonight. LOLOriginally Posted by Godzilla
As in any case heat is the enemy, maybe a cooler location could be beneficial.
yes god you were on the money why they mounted the coil pack on the engine i will never know car seems to have much more response to the right boot now as well
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
grrrrr its back worse than ever before now even when driveing she dies same deal wait a few minuets and she sarts again but drive mabe 1-3 klms and stop time to bring out the big hammer
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
Sorry to hear Puca.
You have the list above, you know what to do, don't overlook things such as the fuel pump though.
If its the coil packs, check you connections in case some heat is turning up the resistance on the terminals or you have some corrosion. Check your leads too, could just be a failed one.
A few posts about coils failing due to heat, i hope Sanity is taking note before making his choice.
Last edited by Godzilla; 25-10-09 at 02:45 PM.
Try putting a timing light on or use a spark plug don't zapp you're self to see if you've got spark when it doesn't want to go. If thats good check the fuel pressure may be there is shit in the tank which blocks the filter the falls of when the engine stops then builds up again. If its like the VN then the ignition is independent of the computer cct other than receiving advance signals and sending crancking pulses to the computer, ie disconnect the computer and you will still have spark.
Sounds like a crank angle sensor to me. The crank angle sensor is mounted behind the harmonic balancer, it's used in the bommodores to send crank position information to the ECM for ignition calculations.
The CAS's main weakness is internal cracking. Problems will occur as the engine temperature rises. When the engine is cold, the sensor is fine, but as the engine warms, the CAS expands with the heat and open circuits, which results in no ignition.
A quick trick to check if it is actually the CAS, is to pour cold water on the crank angle sensor, this will cause it to contract and operate correctly. Then when it warms up again it will fault.
hi guys thanks for the input not the crank angle sensor as i replace it 3 times cant be that unlucky ? also you can almost time it will stop after about 5 minuites once it is warmed up it dies wait 30 - 60 seconds it will start run again for about 5 minutes and the cycle begins now i noticed that just as it dies if its ideling the rves drop reves up agian then dies i have not touched it for the last 2 weeks as i will turn it into a bbq if it dont pull its socks up
IF IT DONT WORK USE A BIGGER HAMMER
With these symptoms I'd be checking fuel pressure, if need be duct tape a gauge to your windscreen so you can see it.hi guys thanks for the input not the crank angle sensor as i replace it 3 times cant be that unlucky ? also you can almost time it will stop after about 5 minuites once it is warmed up it dies wait 30 - 60 seconds it will start run again for about 5 minutes and the cycle begins now i noticed that just as it dies if its ideling the rves drop reves up agian then dies i have not touched it for the last 2 weeks as i will turn it into a bbq if it dont pull its socks up
has the fuel filter ever been replaced?
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it.
When I had a faulty CAS the replacement failed weeks later lol
Leroy
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