Reply With QuoteHi mate what model is it ???
LG side by side fridge
G'day all, does anyone have any experience repairing fridges? I've got an LG fridge that doesn't work properly. I think the chill plate in the freezer section is freezing up and not allowing the cold air to be blown into the fridge side.
Just thought I'd ask here before a repairman bends me over.
If any more detail is required let me know
TIA.
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Hi mate what model is it ???
When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all
G'day, the model is GR-B207EC.
Sorry mate they only have the user manual (in DJVU only lol) and specs sheet
When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all
z80 (31-05-09)
No worries, thank you for checking it out anyway.
think there is a glass encap.defrost element here that is broken,in under the plate ,thats controlled by the electronic pcb ,usually encased in a box in the lower rear of the fridge cabinet.
this may be faulty as well? this usually also controls all the combined thermostat functions from the electronic sensors in fridge section an freezer sections ,timer functions an control of the variable flow control of fan between ,freezer to fridge via servo driving a small baffle .
I expect a check an replacement of this element may be required first ,next a check an replacement of the control pcb??
This wont be cheap?
eg.as in some LG.an samsung these boards alone may cost $200+
Thnks Rickove, I've managed to find the exploded view PDF and a parts list so I'll check it out. Could you point out where I need to look from this attached exploded view. Failing that, Mate has given me the number of a fridge mechanic in the area who may be able to help.
Last edited by CoopsOz; 31-05-09 at 11:02 AM.
from quick look at pdf/
Pcb, in machine section in case 500A with fuse.
next in freezer section behind plastic cover,in area/part 408A looks likely
these plastic coverpanels have multitude of screws,behind push in covers/caps an double sided tape.maybe a good half an hoursjust to remove all this,as it usually covers the 12v fan higher up in the freezer section also.
checks to see that this fan works an electrical driven baffle box 116A works.
there is an electrical heater element in this as well?
most times just a new Main PCB is the fix,if you can find one as a swap out replacement?
You be up for a couple hours work on all these checks,an may have a merry old time getting it all back together.
Best get a Refrig. tech. do the work,as they do these things common place,every week.an is their Trade an expertise.an can source parts as required.
Your call? Cheers!
CoopsOz (31-05-09)
Here is a pic of the PCB, there doesn't seem to be a fuse in this one. So if I can ascertain if the defrost relay is working than it is more than likely the 116A is busted? Will the relay be easily identifiable?
Further investigation shows a frozen coil that obviously isn't working properly, so now I have to assume the defrost cycle isn't working.....is that the case?
Hey mate have you let the fridge to be turned off overnight or something to completely to defrost or now that its stripped down maybe blowing it down with a drier and turning it back on to see what happens ??
good luck mate
When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all
check that lower heating element ,appears bent?maybe broken inside.
if its ok,must be the pcb then ,the logic that times relays switching for this. dont worry about the Baffle transfer box ,unlikely.
Update, the defroster measures 255.5 ohms.....so can I now assume that it is o.k. and perhaps it is the relay at fault? Which from what I can gather from your post Rickove that I'm up for a new PCB.
If the element is ok then it will only be the defrost timer about $70.
Thanks Pacificbanana, but it seems to be going alright now. If it fouls again is the defrost timer on the main PCB or is it located by itself?
It is located on its own it will be in the fridge side behind a panel with screw easy to remove and replace.
Any hassles PM me.
Cheers
Bloody fridge has done it again...so it has lasted a bit over two weeks. I'm pretty sure the defrost timer is on the PCB 'cos I can't find any other panels inside or out of the fridge on the exploded view. You still around Pacificbanana?
Edit - I can feel the defrost relay working, also it measures 245v when closed and only about 25v when open so I guess it is just the heater element. 255 ohms across the heater seems high to me.....what do you all think?
Last edited by CoopsOz; 23-06-09 at 11:23 PM.
The fridge is finally fixed!
I'll start from the start, the fridge is a electronic fridge which blows air from the freezer side into the fridge side. What was occurring was the evaporator was icing up to the point that it was blocking the inlets to the fridge. After gaining access to the evaporator it was very evident (see above pic).
With no experience (and no CCT diagram) I attempted to rectify the fault by trial and error....I replaced the entire motherboard ($150.00) and the fault continued. I then replaced the heater sheath ($100) with exactly the same results, needless to say I was getting a little pissed by this stage!
After countless hours on the net I did manage to find a CCT diagram for the fridge....low and behold there was a thermal fuse placed between the heater relay on the motherboard and the heater itself. I had incorrectly assumed the heater was getting power because I had metered the relay with the full 250v being read.
The problem was the bloody thermal fuse, this is physically attached to the evaporator, it's job is to go open circuit once it reaches a pre determined temp (in this case 72 degrees C). It is my understanding that the relay operating the heater is on a timer...it pays absolutely no attention to what the fridge itself is doing. The relay will quite happily pump out power for the pre-determined amount of time, the fuse is there to (obviously) cut power in the event everything gets too hot.
In the end I have spent over $250 and many hours on replacing a $3.50 part. I know many people said check the fuses, but I was looking for a traditional fuse....not a thermal fuse!
I hope this can help someone in the future. BTW, this entire post will be cut onto other forums where I was asking for help in order to tie up loose ends.
Godzilla (16-08-12),wyalkatchemsat (25-07-09)
LG fridge
Hi, I hope somebody can help me with my LG GR-482SF fridge.I have water coming out from under the veggie-bowl at the bottom.
I took the plastic panel out at the back,but nothing obvious.The top matches up with a square hole going to the freezer.
Every time my wife gets some veggies,I get told"You haven't fixed the bloody fridge Yet"
Anu ideas?
Thanks.
yep start a new thread as i dont think many ppl will look at this thread because his was fixed in july
gulliver (10-12-09)
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