HELLO Peoples ,
The boss has had a KIA PREGIO since new and it has recently been getting on and off, a electrical fault, which is covering a whole lot of the van .
The problem is with a range of electrical devices not protected by the same fuse Eg ... door locks, electric windows , tail lights , interior light , ECT ...
I'm thinkin it's a grounding fault or a sticky relay as it comes and goes .
If anyone has experiance or knowledge of this problem let me know I might get some brownie points or a raise for fixing the piece of crap ... LOL ...
THANKS
Mick
Lead me not into temptation...I am capable of getting there myself.
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Godzilla (06-05-10)
check the connectors on both ignition and fuse box as well as the battery terminals and check the earth from the negative terminal to the body and to the engine so check all that and see how you go
Id agree with much of the above.
Get some heavy gauge wire and terminals and build yourself an earthing kit.
Run it from the battery to all parts of the car like block, transmission and different parts of the body.
Try finding your current earth points, undoing them, sand the terminal and any paint off the chassis/body or block to make a better connection.
Spray some paint over the terminals after you have cleaned and reattached them if your worried about rust.
The problem you're having is with the "ETACS" module, which is one of the boxes of sparks bolted to the floorpan below the centre of the dash. It controls every one of the systems you listed.
Part number is 0K7C067720, retail price is around $330.
The problem is caused by that circuitry getting wet from a leak in the left-hand windscreen wiper pivot.
I've replaced two of these modules in two different vans in the last 6 months.
Correct.
Thank you for your info.
I had the same problems on the pregio.
It is only a hell a job to reach that ETACS module. But it did the job!
Hey people, i think i may be having the same problem. first my central locking wouldn't work... then my windows wouldn't go down and now there seems to be a short circuit in my brake lights. does this sound familiar? these cars are a pain in the but to trace the wiring. i unplugged all of the modules i could find on the floor as stated above but the short still is in the system. i really dont wanna pay an auto sparky them bastards charge like a wounded bull!!
any help is greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Mibs
Post 5 has your answer.
Hey, nice user name and welcome on board.
mkhannah (17-09-18)
I'm sorry but i have to Laugh, you buy a cheap arse Van that has a reputation of a rolling coffin held together with paper clips.
You complain now that it might cost money for someone with skills to put your paper clips and cables in the right place.
You get what you pay for
But I hope you get by in the long run. Without too much stress and without having to spend too much.
I recently replaced the completely dead battery in my Kia but before doing so popped an underated battery in to see if it was an alternator fault, before buying a new proper rated battery.
When I put that test battery in i saw sparks which indicates I might have initially plugged the leads on backwards..
In any case when I bought the correct battery & put it in the car started no worries & isn't draining the battery (so it was just a dead battery)
However the A/C, cd, interior lights, central locking, & clock now dont work.. I checked the main fuse & it was blown so i replaced it, but those things still dont work.. So ii seems from this thread that i damaged the ETACs.
Anyone know where to get one, whether i should buy 2nd hand or new, where the ETACs is located & how to get to it, or is it beyond someone with only just passable car skills .
thanks for help.
this thread is 3 years old, if you read the ten posts i think your questions will be answered
Regarding my 2005 Kia Pregio.
Well typically its taken me this long to get around to doing something about it.. See the car still drives fine, but all those electrics I mentioned are still out & now the rear brake lights are on all the time unless I remove the battery terminal.. So im forced into it or the battery would drain every time i left it connected, plus people would run up my ass in traffic....
Thought Id post the process here in case any other newbies need to be walked thru it.. Cos i need more help!
Heres a foto of what I assume I need to replace, The ETACS, which is bolted to the wall just above the floorpan behind the cigarette lighter..
I have also been told by someone on another forum that it would be prudent to :
"check the connectors on both ignition and fuse box as well as the battery terminals and check the earth from the negative terminal to the body and to the engine so check all that and see how you go."
I've checked the connectors (except the one from negative to the engine cos its too hard to trace) & they seem to be fine, at least they look fine, Am i supposed to be checking for a melting or a disconnection?.. Anyway I think its 99% sure the ETACs..
So if you can please walk me through the process & tell me if the yellow module in the picture marked K7CO is the bit i need to replace I'd appreciate the help as Im sure others will..
My idea is to buy a replacement ETACs from the kia dealership or a wreckers & if they have a return policy I will return it if it is not the problem..
thanks again
dog.
Your brake light issue, have you disconnected the connection to the brake light switch above the brake pedal and done a continuity test on the switch in case its stuck on?
You may have other gremilins starting to appear which may be adding to your original faults.
No I havent done that, but i can certainly have a crack at it.. Guessing id need a multimeter (basic i know but i dont have one)..
In any case that problem not withstanding what about the ETACs issue, would you know if Im on track with the questions i asked?
cheers
Yes just a basic Multimeter, you could even leave it connected and use a 12V tester, power should be coming in from one end and not leaving out the other, play with the switch, could be just sticking or the pedal not returning all the way or the switch being out of adjustment.
Not sure if the braking circuit runs through the module, my knowledge of your model is next to nil but so far all braking ciruits i have seen are pretty much the same and basic in principal.
thanks, just checked it & the problem looks to be machanical & unrelated (ie not electrical) theres a little white switch at the back of the connector which doesnt seem to be getting depressed when the brake pedal returns to off. Why that just happened i dont know, but when i depress the switch with my finger the brake lights go off, so i just need to figure out how to make the pedal go back to doing it..
Now back to the ETACs... heheh.
yep, just taped a bit of cardboard to the metal plate that depresses the white switch & now it turns the brake lights off.. For some reason there is a hole drilled in that plate exactly where the white switch is situated so it falls thru the hole & ends up not being switched off. silly.
Could be a rubber stopper that goes in that hole to push the switch which may have fallen out.
If the switch is not adjustable, it may be a case of a bolt and 2 nuts to lock it in place and to adjust the protrusion to operate the switch which may have fallen out.
Last edited by Godzilla; 18-02-13 at 03:41 PM.
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