Just for something different, I thought I might share my latest creation.
I recently found the need to program a goldie with some new data.
Until recently, I had an old Clanzer Smartcard Reader Writer which was basically a phoenix programmer. I had heavily modified it to look more like this , but I could not get it to work with ICProg.
So after having a look at the schematic of the Silicon Chip Smart Card Reader / Programmer MKII, I realised that I could recycle the parts from my old programmer and make a new one.
I have access to PCB manufacturing equipment at work, but I didn't want to go back to work during my holidays, so I made it on Veroboard.
I had a couple of errors that I had to fault find like forgetting to add a few links, but I really got caught out on the pin configuration of 2n3904 and 2n3906 transistors.
I built the board with bc549 and bc559 in mind which have the pins around the other way
Since discovering that error, I now have bc549 and bc559 transistors in and it it is working fine.
For anyone considering building this programmer on veroboard, I would highly suggest them not to.
It has consumed too much of my time.
I really should have just gone into work and etched a new PCB.
But it is now working fine and you get a real sense of achievement when you construct a circuit out of Vero.
Regards,
Jamie
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Nice work Duffy. Well mounted into the 3.5" hard drive rack.
Reality is an invention of my imagination.
ಠ_ಠ
Well good for you I know what you mean the sense of achievement is worth the hassle.
I have a few different ones myself some from kits some not and a bit like you I mounted one in a removable HD case another on in a CD Rom case you can’t even tell they are in the computer.
But the one I like the most even tho it wont do everything is the season interface that I made that lets me read and wright a card while it is in box.. It has only 3 transistors and 6 resistors and that it works great.
Nice work the_duff,
I like the switches on the front panel to change from
Phoenix to smartmouse
& 6.0 to 3.57MHZ
& I guess the top switch is for Accessing the Pic or the Eeprom
Cheers
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If using a remote switch for clock selection you need to be careful how you do it. The switching in Jaycar Mk II is done directly at the crystals using a jumper link which is OK, but if you run flyleads at that point to a remote switch you risk destabilising the oscillator because of excessive load capacitance and noise susceptibility.
There are a couple of ways to do it properly, such as what did.
I don’t normally read GW1’s post as they are too long but in this case I did and have to agree. I work mainly in Two-way radio and seen a lot of bad mods and the cause being running wires together with crystals this can shift frequency as the wires work as a capacitor so using speaker wire or just running them together is not recommended try a switching transistor or a small relay and run wires to them, it would be better.
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