URGENT Help Needed: Liteon actually dead...

[daktees]

I am not necessarily new to flashing xbox drives, I probably do arounf 2-3 a week so I have definitely done a few liteons perfectly; this is the first xbox I have had trouble with...

After taking home a console for a customer, a took the normal procedure of testing the 360 before I open it; this console worked fine. I then proceeded to open it all up and detach the drive. This drive was a Liteon DG-16D2S.

I heated up my soldering iron and got ready to bridge the r707 pads. While applying solder to the point, some got stuck to the iron and dropped onto the r707 point; also touching the 808 point a bit as well. The solder looked as if it wasn't attached to anything so I flicked it off; this in turn ripped both pads on the r707 clean off leaving bare pcb where they used to be and tiny bits of copper wire sticking up (would of been like 0.2mm)(r808 point appears to be fine).

I then attempted to solder to this bit of copper and the alternative TXD ground point. After I had finished soldering it all looked fine and connections seemed to be holding well etc. I then hooked it up to my CK3 Lite and switched it on. No response from the drive at all. No spinup sound or anything. I tried ejecting and I got no response at all from the drive. I then proceeded to restarting computer, switching on and off and ejecting/manual ejecting. Nothing.

I then played around with other alternative points and got nothing.
I desoldered everything and put it back into the xbox; doesn't work.
Xbox still boots but when I press eject, the middle power on light flashes repetitively and nothing happens.

I suspect that some sort of capacitor/resistor has blown and here I am wondering if there is absolutely any way that i can extract the key so I can replace the drive; or even better repair the drive?
If anyone can shed any light on my situation it would be great!
Matter is kind of urgent as I am meant to be returning it to the customer tomorrow..
However I can already see that this is going to take longer than one night. Can anyone please help me out here?

[urban_s0ulja]

Why'd you solder if you already have a Ck3?

How are the smd resistors around those pads?

[daktees]

I have a CK3 Lite; no probe, just the unit itself.

All resistors look to be in good condition. Just realized something, I remember that there should be a very small resistor bridging the R709 gap right? After inspecting it there isn't one.. Now what? I'e had a look round for it on the table/ground but can't see it anywhere... Will this wreck the board if I power the drive without it?

[urban_s0ulja]

I have a CK3 Lite; no probe, just the unit itself.

All resistors look to be in good condition. Just realized something, I remember that there should be a very small resistor bridging the R709 gap right? After inspecting it there isn't one.. Now what? I'e had a look round for it on the table/ground but can't see it anywhere... Will this wreck the board if I power the drive without it?

Yes there is a resistor.



I wouldn't power the board with something missing... you might be able to bridge it and get it working but i wouldnt suggest it

You can probably still save the drive,

Be very careful as excessive heat can damage those smd components.

[daktees]

Thanks mate. You rekon this is the main problem?
Any idea on how to fix the issue I'm having? How much would you charge to extract the key?

[urban_s0ulja]

Thanks mate. You rekon this is the main problem?
Any idea on how to fix the issue I'm having? How much would you charge to extract the key?

Not to sure,
Id fix that resistor up first and see where that takes you.

Good luck finding it though lol

Update the thread when you get it going again.

Ps. Get yourself a spear....

[daktees]

I've read that it's 100ohms so might pop down to DSE and see what they got.
If it isn't the resistor, is there ANY other way I can extract the key?
thanks for you help!

[pak_indo]

I would start by finding a good quality photo of the PCB (surely on X-S somewhere) and start comparing them in the area of interest.

As for the R709 resistor.... yes it is meant to be there...
and powering the drive without it cannot hurt anything.

Good luck mate. Will be interested to hear how this goes.

[urban_s0ulja]

I've read that it's 100ohms so might pop down to DSE and see what they got.
If it isn't the resistor, is there ANY other way I can extract the key?
thanks for you help!

dse wont have them mate....

they dont carry smd, and they are slowly getting rid of all their components as well.

try somewhere like farnell or if you have any other drives laying around salvage one out of their.

use a hot air station to remove and resolder it, or at least a soldering iron at very low temps. Im not too sure how well that component will take alot of heat. One of the other guys probably knows.

[pak_indo]

I've read that it's 100ohms so might pop down to DSE and see what they got.
If it isn't the resistor, is there ANY other way I can extract the key?
thanks for you help!

jaycar should ave em. or as a quick fix you could try and solder an ordinary garden variety one in there if you feel the urge

[daktees]

Thanks for all the help guys. I will see what I can do tonight and if nothing happens I'll get a resistor tomorrow and see how that goes.
If worst comes to worse then I'll have to swap guts of a spare...

[daktees]

Well... Lets just say my Xbox adventure went from bad to fantastic...to terrible.

After staying up all night I managed to restore functionality to the drive after a hell of a lot of soldering and duct tape. Today I extracted the key and flashed the drive, a tthis point I was jumping for joy as I knew it wasn't going to mean buying a new xbox... Well how wrong I was (I think).

After flashing the drive everything was swell and I put the drive back into the box to test it out. Drive was 100% responsive, I was now extremely happy and had only one thing left to do; test a backup.

I took my copy of need for speed undercover (backup) and tested it out. It booted up! At this point I was getting ready to turn the xbox off and pack it up to send back. Just at this moment the game freezes, I suspected a dirty disc.. I tried another backup with the same result; it runs fine for about 1 minute and then the whole xbox freezes up. Then I moved onto originals, same thing happened.

After then realising that i may have stuffed the drive, I decided to get a spare drive and spoof it as a liteon with the same key. After flashing this drive, it did exactly the same thing as the other drive, everything just kept freezing. At this point I realise that it's the xbox itself and has nothing to do with the drive.

At one stage of restarting the xbox, I actually got RRoD and then restarted again only to find it went away.. Oh and another weird thing I noticed was that when I inserted a game after the xbox was fully on, it still gave me the option of 'Play Game' instead of automatically loading it. And whats more is that it didn't display the game title; just 'Play Game'.

After reading up, I realised that this freezing is the early sign of the RRoD.
How fantastic! And what's even better is that this xbox was purchased less than a week ago, aren't microsoft brilliant?!

If anyone at all knows of anything I can do, it would be much appreciated as I don't want to get physically punished by this customer :P But really.

Thanks guys.

[urban_s0ulja]

If you've got a working key, your safe.

Replace the DVD drive.

If your getting RROD thats got absolutely nothing to do with the dvd drive mate, just unlucky.

[daktees]

I was safe for a bit, until the RRoD set in..
The xbox also freezes on the menu, this problem is one Microsoft can deal with (I hope)..
I've put it all back together and made it look as new as possible, hopefully I get someone nice in the M$ repair crew that can fix it for me. I will be sending the customer a replacement Xbox...
Thanks for your help urban, I'll post up when I've sorted everything out.
Cheers.

[shai12]

The only problem now MS will prolly put in a new mobo and a u beaut new unhackable liteon

[pak_indo]

thanks for posting back how you went mate...bad luck about the rrod

did you end up getting smd's and soldering em in or just bridge the points?

[Satyrikon666]

as posted above get yourself a probe/spear etc
spending 20 bucks vs 200+ bucks = winner

[alphredo]

ahem.... ill probably get flamed for this but you could go ahead and x-clamp repair the customers xbox since its allready been opened.

[pak_indo]

ahem.... ill probably get flamed for this but you could go ahead and x-clamp repair the customers xbox since its allready been opened.

yep.... you might wanna consider removing that comment

[cwispy]

ahem.... ill probably get flamed for this but you could go ahead and x-clamp repair the customers xbox since its allready been opened.

No, you wont get flamed, you will only get called an idiot by me for continuing to promote a fix which has been proven time and time again to not work. Do you also go around suggesting people fill up their unleaded cars with diesel instead so they get better mileage?

The bottom line is that the x-clamp method is not a fix. Its that simple.