Reply With QuoteMaybe you should ask your question in this place
I am sure some of the boys can help you there
Car repair questions
I need a little car advice. I own a 91 camry.
I recently went overseas and came back to find my car not working properly.
The car had trouble starting initially. The battery needed charging. After a night on the charger the car started but now the car was jerky and stalled frequently, especially when changing to higher gears.
My dad had it towed to a mechanic and they discussed the problem. My dad says it was a "timing belt problem". Later the mechanic finds it was a computer problem (EFI I think) The mechanic rings me and says he replaced it - cost $180.
He also says he opened up the engine and had a look at the timing belt. Some oil has leaked from the seals and he says he should replace them. He says some of the oil has leaked onto timing belt and that will cause it to deteriorate quickly and I should replace that too. - Cost $550.
I'm a little suspicious of the whole thing. I told a friend and he said he had a similar problem and his computer in his car needed to be "reset". Now I assume that this is accurate because it fits in with my battery going flat for so long. So I'm curious whether the computer was replaced
at all.
Secondly, I'm cautious about replacing the timing belt on my old car because its only worth so much
after so long. I'd rather wait it out and get it fixed once I start noticing symptoms of failure.
Summary Questions
1. Is it likely that the EFI computer in my car needed to be replaced?
2. Will oil cause a timing belt to deteriorate?
3. How do I know if the timing belt needs to be replaced? Is there any symptoms? Or does it just fail?
4. Are the costs I've been quoted high or average?
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Maybe you should ask your question in this place
I am sure some of the boys can help you there
When you do things right, people won't be sure that you have done anything at all
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if the timing belt snaps the engine will be completely destroyed.
you need to be on top of that recommendation.
the cost is a touch high, lubemobile can do it cheaper say...$350?
If your going to keep driving Id check to see if the engine is an interference type or not, some engines (non interference) can brake the belts without causing damage, but will be un drivable and need a tow. Other engine's (interference type) can cause very expensive damage if the belt snaps, the valves can get in the way of the pistons, which is where the interference title comes from.
Either way it could cause alot of trouble if it happens at a bad time, like crossing an intersection or far from home.
Is there any symptoms before a belt goes?
Is 550 a reasonable price for replacing the belt and some oil seals?
Absolutely none...all good then all bad. Had one go while doing 100k/hr on my old 1986 corona...fortunately it was a non interference engine and no harm done.Originally Posted by Danny12345
I've done some searching and I've seen some people say its a non-interference engine.
The 4 cylinder camry engine will NOT have a valve to piston smash should the timming belt fail. It will just conk out and at worst backfire before stopping.
The belt should be replaced if its been exposed to oil. This breaks down its strenght very quickly.
Yes the front oil seal must be replaced first.
Its not a small job on a front wheel drive car.
He may find your water pump may need replacing while his there. Alow for this.
My last major service on my company car, 2002 camry, 2 years ago, replace seal, belt, waterpump and major service was $850 from memory.
All parts were nongenuine, belt was gates.
Your running problems need more information. Is it stalling when cold/ hot, is it a flat spot, is the engine smooth but possibly the tranny jerks?
The toyota ecu is most likely behind the front passanger side kick panel.
They rarely fail, but could if you try to jump start them without suppresed jumping leads.
The main ecu controls everything including your efi.
Most cars need a bit of time for the ecu to relearn all its settings again, this may lead to abit of stalling till it relearns.
You car has been off for some time and may have a stuck injecter (or some other compenent for that matter) causing your problems.
$180 for a second hand ecu is normal. Could be found cheaper if you spent some time running around and probably not worth it.
You havent been ripped off. Normal, average prices.
From toyatanation.com forum website "both the 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines are non-interference" so you will probably be ok if it does go...but also probably very inconvenient. I'd go along with global88's suggestions
I just had a little think and have some small suggestions.
Make sure you battery is properly connected, a nice snug fit on the teminals, make sure their clean for a good contact, make sure all extra wires comming off the leads are also well connected with no corrosion (very important).
Your negative lead. Clean it, disconnect and sand paper where it connects to the battery, the body and to the engine. Youd be surprised to find what a sand and clean could do.
Put some FRESH fuel in it. Fuel goes off and can cause it to run like a bag of s**t.
Most EFI computers are self adjusting. So as the car drives it changes values in a nutshell.
What I assume has happened is the ECU has been powered down for a long period of time and in most ECU's doing this defaults the computer so all the changes it has made over the years will be wiped. (This is common in Commodore ECU's.)
So essentially you will experience bad fuel mapping. Which will cause jerkyness and stalling. What you can do is put it in neutral and hold the revs up at 3000rpms for about 30sec. If that doesn't work then it might be stuffed.
1. not unless you jump started it incorrectly, which may fry it and put it into 'limp' mode. this mode will get you home, but will run roughly and use lots of fuel.
2. yes
3. should be done around every 100 - 150k, depending on vehicle, a visual inspection will show any problem (cracks etc.). no symptoms. yes, it will just fail.
4. average. it doesn't matter if you have a $500 banger or a $100k limo, labour costs and parts will be roughly the same (unless it is really exotic).
a breakdown is a breakdown, no matter what vehicle.... .
running rough could also be caused by a dry seal, allowing air into the intake system (bypassing the airflow meter), a sticky injector, bad fuel, dodgy sensor etc.
try filling up with fuel, adding some injector cleaner and going for a good drive...
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