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Thread: Heat Pumps and Cool Elevated Climate locations

  1. #21
    Banned BlackDuck's Avatar
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    Been trying to visualise your water heating system as you describe it trash.
    I suspect unless I've missed some crucial part, Your closed heating pipe is going to sound like a large Put-Put boat when the pipe reaches water boiling temperature.

    I'm not too familiar with Ammonia absorption refrigeration and how far you could mount the boiler from the evaporator and absorber, but you could do this using a lithium bromide salt/water system where the distances between the boiler and the chiller on large units is less important, so lending itself to a solar heated boiler and an in ceiling/roof ducted chiller.



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    trash, you have been reading my mind i have just sourced a couple of kero frig's ( have to collect from farm) and am in process if applying more heat via tracking mirror will get it colder end use will be solar powered A/C chiller water will be pumped via solar pumps and as everyone says it effiecency is crap but who cares when it costs nothing to run

  • #23
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    Yes. The old kero fridges I think are quite interesting. I'll have a look at the lithium bromide system BD. It sounds interesting too.
    Yes, it should rattle BD, but that's the point. The flow of steam in the pipe is what pumps the water. When the steam collapses, the cavitation sucks the water up too.
    I'm going to build myself a small demo soon to see how well it works, if at all.
    Gal pipe sections are good because they just screw together.

    I'm just not a mechanical person, so I find things like engines etc hard to build. I'm pretty good with theory though. I pick up mechanical concepts easily. Differentials used to puzzle me until one day I saw one with the cover off.
    I still think it's one of the coolest concepts I've seen.

    Electronics is my thing. So building controllers etc, no problems.
    I can make an electric motor do almost anything torque wise, I just can join it's drive shaft to anything

    It's probably for the best. If I had the ability to build high speed centrifuges I'd probably bomb Iran as a pre-emptive strike
    Yes I am an agent of Satan, but my duties are largely ceremonial.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trash View Post
    ~It's probably for the best. If I had the ability to build high speed centrifuges I'd probably bomb Iran as a pre-emptive strike
    I contracted for Krauss Maffei GMBH for some time in the mid 1960s, and installed several High speed centrifuges, I recall that one was installed for Wheat Industries in Tamworth.

    Though not exactly the type of centrifuge you had in mind, the Iranian "Pre emption" idea merits further thought.

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    Junior Member Bluedog's Avatar
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    wood fired hot water is what we use here.
    Trash has been here and knows how our house works.
    in the forest we can go and get fallen wood weekly to run the house and more wood is grown than we can gather. obviously this cant happen in a suburban enviroment. the rest of the house power is solar
    cheers
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    oh, and Trash , the room in the motel in tamworth closest to the check-in is right next to the heat pump hot water services, they are the noisiest things ... that low frequency thumping drove me nuts., you cant sleep through that. get the room at the far end away from the heat pump hws!! cheers
    member. Austech dog squad: if it can be fixed the dogs will sniff it out

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluedog
    we can go and get fallen wood weekly to run the house and more wood is grown than we can gather. obviously this cant happen in a suburban enviroment. the rest of the house power is solar
    cheers
    No close noisy neighbours, No air pollution.

    Yabbies in the dam, Probably tank water too.

    Geez Blue, How my heart bleeds for the pair of you.

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    Junior Member moke007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon_s1942 View Post
    I did a SEARCH, figures going around and around in my head to confusion but if this is only a 'Fridge, why does it have to be wired in on a seperate 15A power point??
    They normally only draw about 5A but the reason they need to be on their own circuit is most manufactures recommend not having them on a RDC (Safety Switch). It is now illegal to install any new power point without RCD protection, this being the case they must be hard wired. They still have a flexible cord but it is just wired into a round j-box on the wall with a cable gland.

    It is always good practice to wire things onto their own circuit if they may cause trouble down the line, i.e. outdoor power points for pumps, hot water systems, even fridges are sometimes put onto their own circuit.

  • #29
    Junior Member moke007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickc View Post
    most are wired to existing service off peak
    you can run them constant as they only use about 5a
    some have boost elements if to cold to run pump
    the dux and quantum were only 250lt when i was looking and didnt have the boost element
    got a rheem 315lt connected off peak the booster hasnt clicked in yet see what happens during winter
    If you use the off peak circuit it is normally worth changing to off peak 2 (Prob changes in different areas) Around here Off peak 1 only runs of a night costs 6c kW and Off peak 2 runs of a night and maybe 6 hours during the day and costs a bit more.

    My dad has a Rheem 315 (no booster) and he tried to get away with off peak 1, only problem is the rheem won't run once the temp gets below about 6 degrees. He ran out and had to change to off peak 2.

    When you think about it you want the pump to run when it is warmest, if you have a look at some of the specs it may have to run for twice as long if you run it overnight when it is 10 degrees instead of 25 during the day. So off peak can be a false economy. (almost)

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    Quote Originally Posted by trash View Post

    In the case of the dual coil, the on peak will heat whenever the water needs it.
    To fix this, setting the thermostat to a much lower temperature would help for the on peak coil, but I'm not sure if these hot water tanks have dual thermostats for that purpose.
    Yep, two thermostats, top one to control the top element and the bottom one to control the bottom element. You are right trash the top one is set to a lower temp so that it will only cut in when the bottom one is not doing the job.

    If you are interested, the way they work is:

    Off peak with booster will have a two pole breaker in the switch board, one active will be constant supply, the other will be controlled (either by ripple switch or timer) and will be come from the off peak meter.

    So at the HWS we have switched (controlled) active connected to bottom thermostat, and the constant supply active to the top element. Although all the wires are connected into the bottom section of the HWS the neutral is linked up to the top thermostat first.

    Now we don't want both elements to ever be on at the same time because the energy companies don't like the load of one element per home on their systems little alone two and also we only have one 2.5mm neutral return and 2 elements would exceed its current rating.

    So how do we control what element operates? Simple, when the top element is off because the water is hot the neutral is switched by the top thermostat through to the bottom thermostat and element. If the water starts to cool down, the bottom element will kick in and heat the full tank using the controlled active. If it is taking to long or not heating at all due to off peak being switched off the top thermostat will kick in and switch the neutral back to the top element, as this has a constant supply it will heat the top 50 or so litres.

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