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Thread: Do All Programmer Info

  1. #1
    Junior Member Superior's Avatar
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    Default Do All Programmer Info

    Hi

    Would any one have a copy of all the Do All Programmer doc's
    and schematics .

    Thanks



Look Here ->
  • #2
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    Default

    Hey, great little machine!
    I wouldnt mind a copy either if anyone has one.


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    Junior Member Rocket's Avatar
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    Default

    I have it but for some reason the megaupload box doesnt work for me.

    I will try it again tonight from a different PC

    Rocket

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    Senior Member Min's Avatar
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    Wink



    Let me know if the link works.

    Cheers
    Blown Humax 5400Z, Strong SRT 4658X, Strong 4663X and DM 518.

  • #5
    Junior Member Rocket's Avatar
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    Default

    Looks ok Min

    I cant get the upload to work from home either. weird.

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    Default

    Thanks Min... Works fine

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    Junior Member Superior's Avatar
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    Default Works Ok

    Thanks Guys

    Any one else have any more this is a tutorial on how to use the Do-All
    I am after the construction details ect.

    Thanks again good start to my quest

  • #8
    Senior Member Min's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Superior View Post
    Thanks Guys

    Any one else have any more this is a tutorial on how to use the Do-All
    I am after the construction details ect.

    Thanks again good start to my quest

    Sorry dude, just had a quick check on my pc and cant seem to gind the info on construction details. If I do come across them i`ll post it here.

    Cheers
    Blown Humax 5400Z, Strong SRT 4658X, Strong 4663X and DM 518.

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    Default

    Here's the PCB

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    Senior Member gw1's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the Do-All Rev 2 PCB, I hadn't seen it before. It's an interesting combo design.
    • PIC/EEPROM programmer using Parallel port
    • Dual-speed Phoenix interface
    • Inbuilt wanker

    The design isn't perfect but it's pretty good and its single-sided PCB is very nicely laid out.

    Based on the track art I reversed the and () last night. I've inferred component values that should work but as I haven't constructed one myself I make no guarantee. If anyone has built/bought one please post a closeup photo and I'll update with the author's intended values.

    People thinking of building one will discover that the Maplin AR35Q switch is obsolete and hard to find. Most multipole switches have footprints quite unlike the one on the PCB. Farnell carry a few toggle switches with same layout but AFAIK they're all have solder tags - not PCB pins. Tag versions can be either mounted in a plastic enclosure or onboard using short lengths of tinned copper wire. Depending on switch type (toggle vs slider) the phoenix vs PIC/EEPROM orientation may be reversed. My overlay indicates positions for a slider switch.

    There is a power control jumper link next to the smartcard socket. If removed then power will only be applied to the circuit when a card is seated in the socket. In the Always On link position power is always present and the socket switch has no effect. The circuit is designed for a normally open smartcard socket; a N.C. socket would force you to use the "Always On" link. Note that the socket switch status is not available to software: the Phoenix CD bit always returns logic 1, which is compatible with most Phoenix software. (Modded Jaycar Phoenix MK II returns logic 1 when a card is present.)

    The wanker circuit powers the card and phoenix interface components up and down repeatedly. Wankers were popular several years ago for experimenting with card behaviour during brownout. Most modern cards now clearly define their reset conditions according to voltage and clock tolerance etc. EEPROM erase and write error handling remains tricky though so be aware that excessive wanking may endanger your card's data. Wank rate can be tweaked to best effect using the trimpot. Enthusiasts may want to experiment with the resistors around 555 pin 7 which set the mark:space ratio, or the 10R/10uF RC network and 33R load resistor which shape startup and brownout. Note that wanking only affects Phoenix mode; in PIC/EEPROM mode all signal timing is controlled entirely by software and the wanker has no effect.

    In PIC/EEPROM mode the parallel port's lower four bits control the card's 5V power supply, reset pulse, data write signal and the 13V programming voltage (Vpp).
    • D0 (LSB) writes card data to PIC RB7 (socket pin C7). Polarity is the same.
    • D1 supplies the PIC's CLKIN signal (socket pin C3), same polarity.
    • D2 switches the PIC's VDD power supply, with logic 0 applying power and logic 1 removing it.
    • D3 switches the PIC's Vpp programming pulse, with logic 0 applying +13V and logic 1 returning Vpp to 0V.
    • The parallel port /ACK input is used to read or verify data. Polarity is unchanged, ie /ACK bit is low (ACK asserted) for data 0 and high (ACK deasserted) for data 1. The BUSY input line, more commonly used in Centronics interfaces to indicate status, isn't used here.

    Don't confuse the PIC/EEPROM programmer with JDM interfaces! They achieve the same result but use different port lines (JDM uses serial port DTR & CTS for data, RTS for clock and TXD for Vpp). PIC programming apps need to be designed and/or configured for the correct interface hardware otherwise they won't work.

    PIC chips allow their internal EEPROM to be accessed and programmed directly (subject to configuration fuses). Most smartcard wafers also contain an external EEPROM connected to the PIC I/O lines RB4 and RB5. Some products also route those connections to smartcard contacts C4 and C8 for direct access to the external EEPROM but that method is rarely used and not supported. That being the case, the only way to access cards' external EEPROM is using a loader program (not to be confused with a Gamma loader which is a different thing entirely). Smartcard programming software that allows you to select HEX files for both internal and external EEPROM will program these in a multistage process: first they'll program the PIC with a small utility which lets them write and verify the external EEPROM, then they'll use it to program that EEPROM, then they'll do the internal EEPROM and finish by erasing their loader and writing the required code.

    The BAT85 schottky diode is used in the phoenix interface to combine the separate data receive and transmit signals into the ISO7816's single full-duplex data signal. The schottky has much lower forward voltage drop than an ordinary silicon one, and it's needed here to meet the TTL specification for logic 0. Don't substitute a 1N4148 or you may strike incompatibility problems with certain cards. Altronics and Farnell both carry the BAT85. Jaycar carry the 1N5819 which is also suitable. Germanium diodes should work too in a pinch.

    I recommend you use a 74HC00 instead of the older 74LS00 because it uses much less power. Assuming you do, be kind to it and link pins 12 and 13 of its unused gate to pin 14, otherwise it may play up occasionally (I've seen it happen). If you do use a 74LS00 then you should also reduce the two 1M feedback resistors to around 4K7.

    The 7407 also has an unused gate but this TTL device has no such problem. Don't attempt to substitute a 74HC07 -- the Vpp level would destroy it!

    The 100pF on NAND output pin 8 is to eliminate any ringing on the clock signal which can upset some cards.

    If you plan to use the interface primarily in phoenix mode then I highly recommend you solder a 1uF multilayer ceramic capacitor directly between pins C1 (Vcc) and C5 (GND). This will significantly improve card stability.

    Have fun!

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    Default

    Here is the lot.



    Cheers
    ktm200

  • #12
    Senior Member gw1's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for those other files ktm200!

    Here are corrected versions of my and . I was going to edit my post above but can't figure out how. What happened to the Edit button?

    Update: It appears we have ability to edit our posts for a limited time only. Is that right?? That's not good practice for a technical forum. Without intervention from admin this new site will soon be riddled with uncorrected erroneous posts. :-(
    Last edited by gw1; 28-03-08 at 12:06 AM. Reason: noticed Edit button on this post but not my previous one

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    Senior Member z80's Avatar
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    Default

    thanks GW1...good to see you posting.

  • #14
    Senior Member Min's Avatar
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    Default

    thanks gw1, much appreciated.
    Blown Humax 5400Z, Strong SRT 4658X, Strong 4663X and DM 518.

  • #15
    Junior Member Superior's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks Guys
    Just what i was after now i can bring my Do-All back to life

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