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Thread: Jaycar Programmer building questions

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    Default Jaycar Programmer building questions

    hi everyone,

    i bought a jaycar programmer a couple of days ago and have nearly finished putting it together, about 80%, however i have ran into some problems with soldering.

    1st problem, i have got two points soldered together which weren't meant to be (see picture 2, red circles). can someone help me on how to fix this, would buying a desoldering braid do the trick?

    2nd problem, today i ran out of solder that came with the kit, so i tried to use my other solder that i bought from supercheap which is 60% tin 38% lead 2% resin flux, and it will not stick at all! any ideas?

    Another question, the kit came with 13 resistors which were joined together, on the manual there identified as single black band / wire link. are these supposed to be used as wire links? because i'v been using the left over metal bits of the resistors and the like. does it make a difference? (see picture 1)

    thanks guys

    help is appreciated!






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    You can use wire or the zero ohm links it doesn't matter which.

    Using solder braid is a nicer way of removing the solder bridges but you could be crude and heat the solder and flick it off the board and then resolder the joint/s.

    Go back to Jaycar and buy some solder from there if you're unsure about the Super Cheap stuff.

    Leroy
    Last edited by LeroyPatrol; 25-07-10 at 07:10 PM.
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    Strange that you ran out of solder? Generally there's more than enough. Cost of tin must be up.

    The job looks ok so far.

    What soldering iron are you using?

    A good temperature controlled iron is pretty important to ensure:

    1. enough heat to make good joints

    2. ensure there is not too much heat to lift tracks etc

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    im using a 60w super works iron that i bought from super cheap here's the link,



    and heres the link to the solder that is giving me problem,



    im thinking of going to dicksmith and buying this solder:



    would that do>?

    i read it has to be resin core or something. what does that mean?

    thanks leroy that's a good idea i'll try flicking them off tomorrow!

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    Senior Member urban_s0ulja's Avatar
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    regarding the joints that have been merged,
    Try running the iron down the middle and try and split them.
    Otherwise just heat up one of the points and the excess solder should flow to the hot one.

    (A liquid/gel flux would help but im assuming you don't have access to any).

    I would prefer to use a smaller iron as well, 60W is fine for car radios and most other auto-electric work, but if you may ruin heat sensitive components (which are a pain to trouble shoot).

    All the best with your project

    This video may provide some more insight into soldering,

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4"]YouTube- How and WHY to Solder Correctly[/ame]

    solder shouldn't really "stick" its not glue.

    The solder you linked to is fine, ive used it in the past. When you go instore try to avoid the "lead free" solder they'll try and push on you lol.
    Last edited by urban_s0ulja; 25-07-10 at 07:41 PM.

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    Hard to do a good job with a front end loader when a trowel will do.

    Last edited by Farmsky; 25-07-10 at 07:49 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmsky View Post
    Hard to do a good job with a front end loader wne a trowel will do.


    Exactly. 25W is usually a good guide for electronic work. Excessive heat can damage semiconductor components as well as lift tracks on the PCB.

    Leroy
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    hmm ok does not look bad

    couple tips

    1: when using a blow torch like that grab an old thick chux and wet it down
    then while working pop the irons tip into it and the moisture in the chux will cool
    the tip down so it does not over heat.

    2: grab some steel wool ( the stainless one is better ) and occasionally run it over the irons tip
    This will remover any oxidisation build up and help solder flow.

    3: as for the over solder that's an easy fix, look through your junk draw
    and grab any old un-used ide - floppy cable or even thin electrical wire ( stranded core ). strip the outer plastic and then place the copper wire on the over solder then place the tip of the iron on the wire and it will draw the solder onto the wire.

    Now when your done have a search for a thread created by the late GW1 about the jaycar programmer
    He wrote a comprehensive description on the unit and listed the little tricks you may need to make
    on the unit for it to work with various wafer cards.he also included detailed pictures to make it easier.
    Last edited by fandtm666; 25-07-10 at 09:04 PM.
    dont say linux if i wanted it id install it

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    I was just having a look at my Jaycar and the bridging solder in the bottom red circle is not a problem as the two points are linked anyway. Holding mine up to the light (looking from the other side) clearly shows the join.

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