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Thread: C&K System 236 help...

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    Default C&K System 236 help...

    Hello everyone, I live in the US and have a C&K System 236 installed in a home I just bought.

    The monitoring company that provided the alarm no longer exists and I can not find any US support for this product.

    I've managed to get a copy of the installation manual but the default codes do not work.

    Is there a way to reset this system to default parameters? Of if I can dump the eeprom does anyone know what address the codes would be located at?

    I hope you guys can help me out, it looks like a pretty nice system I would hate to have to gut it.

    Thank you in advance for your time.



Look Here ->
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    you need a defaulted chip to reset panel or a chip you know the programming code for

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    I think ADT over there will monitor C&K mate.
    THey are still sold over here, im sure u can get someone to service / monitor it!

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    The Australian version of these panels have different programming location so our would not neccessarily line up with yours. There are plenty of suppliers in America that will give support for this panel.

    Paul

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    Default c&k 236

    Hi
    I have a similar problem
    I bought a house from a 92 year old lady who never used her alarm.
    She is now dead and I have no way of finding out the master code to program the alarm.
    I assume I need to do acomplete factory reset,but how???
    I am in Australia.
    oneoff
    Last edited by oneoff; 25-11-09 at 01:50 PM.

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    The last time I did an EEPROM dump on one of these things was about 8 years ago, but here goes....
    The installer code is 6 digits?? I think.
    If you have the programming manual, that should tell you the location of the installer code..That location is the EEPROM location as well. So just read the EEPROM and get the 6 bytes from that location and that should be the install code.
    That's from memory, anyway. Hope it's right??

    HOWEVER.....
    Perhaps you should just get the 3 bytes from that location and simply read the hex dump, so the 3 bytes will be 6 nibbles being the install code...EG hex dump 56 49 76 giving code of 564976
    Will need some playing around..

    Another possibility is 56 49 76 as the hex dump could also be 659467 install code.

    I don't believe there is a factory reset on these particular panels apart from installing a default EEPROM, purchased from C&K, whoever they are now??
    Last edited by muddy0409; 25-11-09 at 03:08 PM.

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    There are several ways to default the installer code and the whole system.

    1st, power the panel down for min then power up again (this depending on how the panel is programmed may reset the installer code) see if the default installer code works 012345 * 0 # if all the power, service and power lights flash then your in programming, to exit press * and #


    2nd If that dosent work, power the panel down, short the 2 solder tabs JP1 (top of board, sorta middle IRRC) keep it shorted as you power the panel up, hold it shorted for about 10 secs then remove the short, then try the default installer code (WARNING - this will default the WHOLE panel includign the installer code, but if the option 'installer lock out' is turned on, this will NOT defualt the installer code, so your left with a defaulted panel you cant program!)

    3rd If you do the above and still locked out, if you have a version 2 chip in the panel, yes you can use a version 1 chip (know as default chip) by powerign down, putting in ver1 chip, do 2nd step above and will work, then power down and put the ver2 chip back in

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    Default C&k 236

    I've installed a few of the C&K panels back in the 90's, 238 & 236 and always had great success with them.

    If you are in need, believe it or not, I have several NEW never used C&K 236 Panels. They come with 1ea keypad.

    They are still a GREAT panel for light-weight jobs.
    I have 3 up in operation right now and never a problem.

    Also a nice DSC-864. Super nice system
    Also an Ademco Vista 20P. Also rock solid system.

    Anyone that decides they want to drop-in for an uninvited visit while I am not home will most certainly and quite quickly become very much confused as to which system to try and disable first. A sort of; BEAT THE CLOCK approch.

    Anyway, I have always been quite partial to C&K systems, even though they are no longer around in the USA.

    The only false alarm I ever had with one was a 238, due to the fact that one day the broom leaning against the wall in the kitchen fell over.
    I really don't consider that a false alarm because after all, the system was only doing it's job, however that just dosen't fly with the local authorities.

    All the best
    MJK KESO

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    Quote Originally Posted by MJK KESO View Post
    If you are in need, believe it or not, I have several NEW never used C&K 236 Panels. They come with 1ea keypad.

    They are still a GREAT panel for light-weight jobs.
    I have 3 up in operation right now and never a problem.
    Hey Downunderdan, I've heard you're a great fan of these panels - maybe you should make an offer? (HAHAHA)

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    Quote Originally Posted by MJK KESO View Post

    Anyone that decides they want to drop-in for an uninvited visit while I am not home will most certainly and quite quickly become very much confused as to which system to try and disable first.

    The only false alarm I ever had with one was a 238, due to the fact that one day the broom leaning against the wall in the kitchen fell over.
    I really don't consider that a false alarm because after all, the system was only doing it's job, however that just dosen't fly with the local authorities.

    All the best
    MJK KESO
    Unless I'm mistaken, you're saying you're running 3 separate systems simultaneously? Why? One well installed system is enough.

    I'm also intrigued by a simple broom falling having activated the system. Unless it's fallen against a window with a shock sensor, there is nothing that should have activated short of poor quality BGD.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BustedLX View Post
    Hello everyone, I live in the US and have a C&K System 236 installed in a home I just bought.

    The monitoring company that provided the alarm no longer exists and I can not find any US support for this product.

    I've managed to get a copy of the installation manual but the default codes do not work.

    Is there a way to reset this system to default parameters? Of if I can dump the eeprom does anyone know what address the codes would be located at?

    I hope you guys can help me out, it looks like a pretty nice system I would hate to have to gut it.

    Thank you in advance for your time.
    I live in the US and i want to break into a system will you help me. My god wake up. full stop.

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    I'd say the question is genuine, and not a crook looking for a way to disable security.

    Is anyone aware of any real-world attempts by bad guys to sneak in and default a panel? As far as I can tell, installer lockout is used purely in bad faith to lock out other (genuine) installers and its abuse is a damning reflection on many in this 'industry'.

    Indeed, if I were a criminal, the most malevolent thing I could possibly do is *not* steal the C&K panel and leave its programming alone! Muuuhahahah.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drift View Post
    Unless I'm mistaken, you're saying you're running 3 separate systems simultaneously? Why? One well installed system is enough.

    I'm also intrigued by a simple broom falling having activated the system. Unless it's fallen against a window with a shock sensor, there is nothing that should have activated short of poor quality BGD.
    No doubt that one well installed system does the job. Probably more of an electronic hobby, but aside from that, it gives women an enhanced sense of security knowing that two guards or even three guards are on duty aside from the usual one.

    I am a locksmith here in the USA. I used to do alarms back in the 70's with my brother inlaw until he was shot and killed. He was in law enforcement.
    Back when Ademco had a big share of the market using those DAY/NIGHT systems with the meters in them and those 6-volt lantern battries, remember those? We would have to go out all hours of the night with those systems, miles of that 2-conductor white twisted wire, one color was gold the other silver.
    Those classic Ademco systems with the keyswitch in the panel and the dialer panel next to it. Those were truly classics and belong in a museum. I hate to see them in the dumpsters.
    Anyway, I have proved to myself over the years that if I put three locks on a door the women will use all three all the time. They just feel more secure.
    And now that I just programmed a key-fob for my wife to use she is really thrilled, along with a DSC PC5601 Tri-Color LED outside so she knows what state the system is in when she pulls up after work.

    The incident with the broom falling over was long time ago, but it was the PIR in the kitchen that set off my C&K 238.

    MJK KESO

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    Question C&K Systems Inc - alarm siren sounding but alarm not activated

    Hi there,

    I have a 16 year old home in Brisbane, Aust which we have owned for 6 years. The alarm light was indicating power difficulties so we had a technician (which was hard to find) come and have a look and he put in a new 12V battery.

    Recently the alarm goes off all by itself, when not activated, and once at 3am. We are at a loss as to why it just goes off. A couple of times it seemed to be when we turned on a light/fan in the on-suite but that may have been a coincidence. I have currently disconnected the 12V battery and the 240 V power just to get some peace.

    I see previous posts which suggest they are now very old alarms and to get rid of it but we have just sold the house and don't want to go to any more expense but don't really want to leave a problem for the next owner.

    Any tips or help would be appreciated.

    Annie
    Last edited by Annie L; 12-07-11 at 10:29 AM.

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    If you've sold the house, I suspect you are selling its fixtures 'as-is' so you might not have any obligation to repair the alarm, other than feeling good about yourself.

    If you want to feel really good about yourself, get rid of it, or at least tell the new homeowner that the alarm is a piece of crap and they should get a new one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by downunderdan View Post
    If you've sold the house, I suspect you are selling its fixtures 'as-is' so you might not have any obligation to repair the alarm, other than feeling good about yourself.

    If you want to feel really good about yourself, get rid of it, or at least tell the new homeowner that the alarm is a piece of crap and they should get a new one.
    I thought the buyer would expect the house to be 'as is' when inspected (ie: alarm was working then) and expect it to be in the same condition when settled. Not sure, but if I were to get rid of it then it may end up I have to supply a 'new' alarm as a replacement. So, no closer to a solution.

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    if you have a eeprom programer remove the eeprom (the 8pin one)i think it is a 93c46 erase it the put it back in and it will default to default code i have done it and it worked from memory the first line is the installer code
    david

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    Could possibly be a tamper fault on the outside siren or the box where the battery is.

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    Default C&K - alarm going off when not activated

    Thank you for your feedback.

    Secure, you were on the right track.

    A technician called out this morning and there is a button in the blue strobe siren box outside. This button depresses as the box is screwed on to the house. After time, they rust and set off the alarm. You can either replace the button or disconnect the wire to it for a fix.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Annie L View Post
    A technician called out this morning and there is a button in the blue strobe siren box outside. This button depresses as the box is screwed on to the house. After time, they rust and set off the alarm. You can either replace the button or disconnect the wire to it for a fix.
    Just out of interest, who suggested to either replace or disconnect (bypass) the tamper switch? You or the technician? I hope it wasn't the technician, as he should know better than that. Bypassing the tamper switch lowers the overall security of the installation - why would you compromise the security of the premises (and possibly breach Australian Standards) when weather-proof, reed style tamper switches are now readily available (eg Bosch), are reliable and will continue to provide a first line-of-defence against physical attack.

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