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Thread: Simple Phoenix Schematic wanted?

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    Default Simple Phoenix Schematic wanted?

    I am after a simple Phoenix/Smart Mouse Schematic. or if someone wants to build me one I will compensate them with a few Maxim RS232 IC's and a couple of bonus Card slots.
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    3 x 90CM Hills Offset, 1.2M Aluminium Offset, 1.2M Offset,
    1.7M Offset.



Look Here ->
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    Member problem child's Avatar
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    looking back through programmers found this.

    i'm sure there are others

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    yeah thanks I found a serial one also here is the link. going to make some up on vero board. if there easy enough I will make a few and sell them cheap as I have 9 spare card slots from another project never finished. also have about 30 Maxim RS232 IC's the rest of the parts are cheep as sheep $#!t
    ---------------------------------------------------
    3 x 90CM Hills Offset, 1.2M Aluminium Offset, 1.2M Offset,
    1.7M Offset.

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    )
    ---------------------------------------------------
    3 x 90CM Hills Offset, 1.2M Aluminium Offset, 1.2M Offset,
    1.7M Offset.

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    Last edited by theriddler_1; 18-05-11 at 03:50 PM.
    where is my tinfoil hat?

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    thanks will get 1 or 2 PCB's made up. need to round up a heap of different Circuits and get them all made at once. need to plot some Schematics out on autotrax if I can find it
    ---------------------------------------------------
    3 x 90CM Hills Offset, 1.2M Aluminium Offset, 1.2M Offset,
    1.7M Offset.

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    i saved you a bit of trouble by simply redrawing this one. I still have one of these readers on my table here. So far its worked with every card Ive put into it.
    If your a keen hobbiest, and have a laser printer. Get a few clear films that is use to print onto for overhead projectors. Print the design in reverse and, make sure the copper on the pcb is clean. I used cut and polish to remove the impurities , and then acetone to remove the polish. Get a cloths iron and put it on around 220 deg cel. lay the toner side down onto the copper and use just the weight of the iron and a "small" amount of pressure and iron the film evenly over the copper board untill the board is at the same temperature as the iron * about 2 minutes * If you press too hard you will bleed the toner and cause tracks to join. When done run the board and film under cold running water untill they are both cold. Carefullt remove the film, if your lucky it will work , some touch up can be done with a felt marker (chemical pen) or etching pen. If some of the tracks do bleed , you can clean them up with a smal hobby knife by srcatching the toner off the copper. or buy the transfer film from jaycar ( about 34 bucks for 4 x A4 sheets )
    I still screen print all my proto boards tho, but this method also works as I use it for very simple stuff like these readers

    I see ive over looked the 1k resistor eyelet for the green power led. Still can drill and solder it tho
    Last edited by theriddler_1; 18-05-11 at 11:19 PM.
    where is my tinfoil hat?

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