Reply With Quoteare you having problems with performance? premium unleaded (95/98) would be about the same as super was, you may need to use an Upper valve lubrication additive.Originally Posted by ozchips
hope this helps
unleaded and older cars
does anyone know of a site that will let you know what older cars can use unleaded ?
I am specifically after information on a 1954 austin A30 , also any links to modifications to unleaded and other modifications you can do to an A30
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are you having problems with performance? premium unleaded (95/98) would be about the same as super was, you may need to use an Upper valve lubrication additive.
hope this helps
As far as I know it will have the same or very similar engine to the early MGB series. Have one and they run like a dog on straight unleaded, gets very pingy. I used the lube additive, it's better but not great.
This site may help
you could put a 179 holden engine in it like brock did.
it did around 140 MPH. lol.
And brock had no brakes!
Dont these use similar engines to datsuns? maybe you could whack one of them in it and keep the old motor if you want to restore it to original later.
Id say if it has a cast iron head then use an additive.
If the head is alloy it may have hardened valve seats for unleaded.
1974 MK2 Triumph Stags had alloy heads and did not have hardened valve seats. Conversion is worthwhile next time you tear the head off.
You need to send the head off for the hardened seats grooves to be machined in and fitted. Google unleaded valves and seats conversion.
This may help Oz.
I run BP 98 octane in my 69 Mustang. I was told that it is the same weight as the old Super therefore it works correctly with a carby. I also run upper valve lube which I add to a full tank.
This works very well in my old girl and havent had the heads off for over 10 years now.
kay have not even got the car yet , but I would like to get it , got a soft spot for the old austins
the motor is not similar to anything , the 850 cc motor was the one austin developed to compete with the morris's at the time who had a bigger share of the market , mind you in 56 when morris combined with austin , they used the austin motors in all their morris's under 1 litre
just a question i do not mind adding a fuel additive , but does anyone know of a conversion you can do to these things , it is the 850cc motor , i am also after a mod to change to pointless ignition/timing and a mod to get rid of the carby and put an SU on it (gotta try and eek out a couple more HP although massive at 30bhp a few extra horses would not hurt lol)
but yeah have not got the car yet , but hoping to get it soon , if the missus lets me of course
My understanding from what you just posted and what i had read on line, was that after austin and morris merged, morris used the austin motor.
What id be suggesting is after getting the car, look towards the mini, preferably the cooper for your engine mods.
You could get another engine and build it up to fit into your car, leaving the original engine on the side incase you want to keep it original.
You could clean up the ports while the heads are off and getting converted to unleaded, there are many aftermarket electronic ignition conversion kits that help starting and clean burn. Su carbs shouldnt be underestimated, you may need larger ones and yes im sure weber would have a adapter and sidedraft to match if you really wanted to get serious.
As i said, id be looking to the morris mini cooper s for tips and tricks, people really pulled good power out of them. They are known to be reliable and won many rallies, sprints, motokhanas and hill climbs even still today.
I would like to keep it original as possible
so any advice about engine mods on the standard 850cc motor would be good
thanks global with the advice on the mini motors , i will leep that in mind when I get sick of doing 70klicks top on the motorway lol
Gee, ozchips how far do you want to go?
Bolt on mods only?
Carbs and manifold
Extracters
Electronic Igntion and regraphed spark advance curve.
Larger free flowing exhaust.
Internal basics?
Shaved head to up comperession
Clean up inlet and exhaust ports near valve throats and match inlet port to mainifold port.
3 angle valve seat grind
Larger valves if budget permits
Better camshaft.
Internal seriously quick and alot of $
Stud kit instead of head bolts for better clamping
Forged high compression pistons
Shotpeened rods
aftermarket rod bolts....note, all these are not for hp, just for strength.
Then full porting of the head.
Biggest valves you can fit.
Stiffer valve springs to stop the valves from floating at rpm.
Big cam
Weber carb and manifold calibrated to suit
Distributer with mechanical advance only, vacuum advance disconnected and regraphed.
Lets not forget the wear and tear with a high rpm setup.
Shit the list and $ just go on.
Id stay with just the basics, bolt ons are just fine and if you take the head off to convert to ulp you could clean up the ports with a drill and grinding stone (or die grinder or dremmel if you have one)to save a $. The short side radius at the valve is where the best results are found with minimal metal removed. Slip a slightly more serious cam in and shave the head to up the compression and she would be a diffrent animal all together.
Just remember that a engine is just a air pump, the better it breathes the more efficient it is.
Its the old saying that i learnt at an early age.
Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?
Heck just thinking about makes me realise that Brock did the best thing lol
Edit; dont forget to upgrade your brakes too........
ahh shit global , now I just have a headache
umm how about you come up to brisvegas for a a week and bring your tools with you , and I can juet leave the little monster with you for a while lol
hopefully if all goes well I will have the little bastard next week , will post pics when/if i get it ok
Well good luck getting her, you sure sound like you have your heart set on it.
Looking forward to seeing her and dont forget to start a new "show us your rides" thread.
Clark rubber-- they have all different rubber bands for those cars
You would be lucky to get any fuel up there on hillbilly hill
Dads finally passed on the horseless carriage to junior has he???
just use standard unleaded with an additive, i have been running my 1948 ajs for a while with no dramas.
DON'T use premium unleaded...
always the funny bloke lmaoClark rubber-- they have all different rubber bands for those cars
You would be lucky to get any fuel up there on hillbilly hill
Dads finally passed on the horseless carriage to junior has he???
thanks hoe , I will just do that mate
have you tried this group in uk
got the little monster
has a terrible turning circle , no speed at all , body roll is bloody horrible , no braking to speak of , it is just how it should be lol
Congrates on your new mistress.
Did you say earlyer that you wanted to go faster???? How are your drum brakes?
Your jpg's not working for me, could you repost the pic so we can have a good perv at her please?
ok try this pic as well
how are my drim brakes ? did not realise i had brakes in the little mongrel hahaha
not bad , but am thinking of getting rid of the rear rod system and going full hydrolic system , am also getting seatbelts installed , though i do not legally need them installed . Just for safety , seatbelts and and better brakes
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