Pajero NL GLS 3.5L Petrol Compression HELP

[cantgetaround]

hi, i have been looking all over the net for info about what compression my 1999 Pajero NL GLS 3.5L Petrol supose to be, i have run a test and got differant PSI on each cyclinder, the highest i got is around 225psi and the lowesr around 190psi, the test was run with some oil leaked into the pistons as my spark plug seals were leaking and i couldnt remove all the oil, so can someone help me with this or direct me to a website to search... thx

[Godzilla]

Sounds like you have a case of slightly burnt valves.

Spark plug leaks have nothing to do with it, your compression tester seal does though.

[LeroyPatrol]

Pajero club forum is another place for info.

Leroy

[hogwort]

cantgetaround, try the wet test. This confirms if it's the valves or piston rings. Remove spark plugs & squrt a little oil into the cylinder & re test the compression. If the compression comes up to significantly, it's the rings. If not the valves are the problem. If you listen to the exaust, leaking valves usually have a poping & uneven exaust tone.

[Tradesman]

the test was run with some oil leaked into the pistons as my spark plug seals were leaking and i couldnt remove all the oil, so can someone help me with this or direct me to a website to search... thx

leaking plug seals are a sign of poor maintenence , they get replaced at the major services.

some variation in cylinder pressures plus or minus 10% is normal so yours sound ok.

what is your engine doing wrong? i have the same engine in a 2002 model

[cantgetaround]

hi and thanks for your input, i did run the oil test and found the vavles to have a slight bend in them so i have removed them, so now i have removed the heads i am removing the block aswell and give everything a rebuild, the head are going to cost around $450pr and the block around $200 depends on how good it is it might just need a hone and new rings, im stuck at how to remove the motor from the manual gearbox, i have everything unbolted and it give from the box but only about 20 or so mm, seems to be stuck on the box, does anyone have any ideas on how to get around this, oh and im leaving the box in under the 4x4 and just removing the motor, and when i go to the reco shop what should i get done, i was thinking full reco the heads with some deck taken away and the block go 1 or 2 sizes up in piston, i dont know about reco things so what are your ideas, i do use my 4x4 for pulling heavy loads of timber for firewood and i have a 17ft poptop, is there any info on the net... any help is greatly recieved

[cantgetaround]

i also forgot to ask if anyone knows of a better air intake system for the 3.5L engine, i hate the idea of removing all the air system to change spark plugs, there has to be something heaps better out there?

[Godzilla]

Manual or auto?

If its auto did you remove the starter and undo the torque converter bolts on the flex plate?

If its manual is the sump hitting anything on the way forward?

Are you supporting the transmission from underneath while pulling the engine forward?

I normally leave 2 engine tranny join bolts on tight, lift the engine as high as it will go till the transmission bell-housing hits in the transmission tunnel or the firewall, support the transmission and then undo the last 2 bolts and just slide the engine forward.

If its manual you need to be certain that the separation is straight, if you see a 20mm gap at the bottom between the engine and tranny but a 10mm gap on top, your not going straight out and it will/may get stuck or even bend your transmission input shaft.

Also a bit of rocking and jiggling while pulling the engine forward helps.

[Tradesman]

i also forgot to ask if anyone knows of a better air intake system for the 3.5L engine, i hate the idea of removing all the air system to change spark plugs, there has to be something heaps better out there?

the air intake system is fine , it only comes off every 100,000klm to replace plugs.

try jiggling the engine a bit to separate from the gearbox. as GZ says , sump may be hitting on crossmember.

[cantgetaround]

thanks again, i got it sorted out, there is a website i found the info about what to do, if anyone else has the same drama as me search spigot bearing removal.. there is a round bung (about the size of a 20c coin ) u need to remove that with a tool ( make one to suit ) a sliding hammer is it or some small round bar welded to the shape i needed and use a hammer to get it out, once that has been done there is a bolt in the housing on the bottom of the clutch fork, remove that and the pin will now slide out the bung hole and the fork will slide off the bearing and make removal of the gearbox and motor a breeze... thankz to all that have help me alone....

[VroomVroom]

so , is the fork clipped onto the thrust bearing is it?

[Godzilla]

Probably a pull type clutch, they are a bastard to separate the throwout bearing from the pressure plate as its locked in.

[cantgetaround]

thx for all the info, i got it out and got engine rebuilt,new clutch,belts,extractors with 2 1/2inch free flow and lots of other goodies total cost was around $5500/$6000, not bad for everything i brought, UMR were going to charge me $5000/$7000 just to rebuild the engine, well all back and running like a dream, just need to get dino and some better rubber, a bull bar is very soon, does anyone know of a dyno place around the slacks creek area, i was thinking of chip touque down on the goldie...