If the door has a free egress handle, I would leave it fail secure for obvious reasons.Originally Posted by alarmman
Hi
And does fail safe mean "Power to Lock" or is it relating to something else. Yes it is my intention to always make the internal latch to be able to open the door 24/7 as it is curently doing at the moment before I set up the electronic lock.
regards,
AUS355
Last edited by AUS355; 25-09-11 at 11:28 PM.
Fail secure implies the door remains secure when failed.
Fail safe implies the door opens when failed.
Fail safe is only relevant if the door that is part of an egress route has no approved mechanical override by which a person can safely egress the building in the event of an emergency.
Hi
Ok got it!
I believe it does have mechanical over ride allready but I still like the FAIL SAFE way of working the system!
regards,
AUS355
Fail-safe
Don't forget battery back-up, as "fail-safe" leaves your building wide open in the event of a power failure, as was mentioned, which is not always desirable. A fire relay can still be used to drop the power if needed.
Also, whenever I use a "fail-safe" electric strike, I generally install it in line with one of the "Smart-Packs", made by hes, just to hopefully extend the life-expectancy - does anybody else use that option, or am I wasting money?
spend some money you tight ass i know it sounds simple but not cheap there are plenty of solutions out but you wanted to remote connect and remote connect=dollars
Hi
I appreciate your feedback and comments however offensive they maybe. I am prepared to spend whatever amount is required to get this up and running with high quality equipment in the most reliable way possible and if that amount even comes to over $100,000 I am prepared to pay for it, however I will not let people think they can get away with throwing wool over my eyes and charging me whatever they think is a fare price just to make their weekly mortgage and HSV payment! Please don't get me wrong I am prepared to pay an honest days labour for an honest days work whenever required.
However when I received some quotes totalling up and over $4000 I thought I would investigate exactly what is involved and because of that I think I can now happily have a high quality system up and running for around the $1000 figure. And because it is me that is responsible for all occupants whenever inside the building I wish to have intricate knowledge on this particular system and how it operates and also be in a position to maintain it should it require.
In future please refrain from commenting in threads that I create as you are clearly not the type of person I wish to have any communication with.
regards,
AUS355
Last edited by AUS355; 26-09-11 at 08:32 PM.
Have done this using a crow door access controller. Didn't use ip but instead dialed into the panel and changed the state of the lock latch using the # button on the phone, set the lock to 15 min timer. After that if whoever wasn't out by that time has to ring up and get the door unlocked again. Works well, as long as you can get a phone line to the panel. Waaaaay cheaper than a concept.
Adrock, you've missed the most important bit. Being an exit door, it MUST be free exit. This means that no-one can be locked inside.
Aus, you need to look at this at two levels: First, does the existing lock (not the strike) meet the free exit rules? Yes, then leave the lock alone and just concentrate on the strike function. No, then get it correct and then concentrate on the strike function. Any misbehaviour of the lock function will give some blood-sucking lawer ammunition to hang you out to dry if there is any problem.
The strike could then in the simplest method (ie no remote access) could just be powered through a 7 day timer, not allowing for holidays. If you do want to remote access and allow for holidays, I would put in a challenger with dial in access with titan.Or with IP access with titan(?)
There may well be other panels out there that would do the job, but my preference would be Challenger, (even their access controller with no alarm functions or keypad) because that is what I know best and have used in similar, albeit much larger, jobs.
This will cost something like $ 1000 by the time it's finished.
Remember to think about the mechanical lock and the electric lock as two seperate questions.
The electric lock should then be fail-secure.
That's my 2 bob's worth.
Last edited by muddy0409; 27-09-11 at 01:32 PM.
AdRock (27-09-11)
Hi
I would like to thank all of the following:
Drift, alarmman, intelliGEORGE, hoe, muddy0409, ben13, haligonian and Adrock for all their advice. I would also like to thank the people that pm'd me with offers of phone assistance as well.
I am now in the possession of enough knowledge to comfortably workout first exactly what I have, change it if required and then set it up to be controlled off a timer with ip control.
This forum truely is a great place for advice.
regards,
AUS355
AUS355,
May I suggest that next time you want people here to review a quote you have before you, try a post which says "Someone has quoted me ABC to do XYZ, is that fair"? This thread could not have answered that simple question and rather would created more questions than it answered.
We still have no idea what the end-result is going to look like. Care to tell us what you came up with for a grand?
Hi
Hey "downunderdan" thanks for your post and advice on how to have possibly better handled and started this thread. Ok I have now gained enough knowledge to actually look at my alternatives and that is what I am doing over today and the next few days.
In regards to the thread creating more questions than it answered, I think that was good as those questions and answers is where I was put onto the right path to look into what was required to solve my issues. Believe it or not without this thread I was not in a position to comfortably go out and choose the brand or product I wanted and was always at the mercy of an installer stating you must use this if you want it to do that and this is the price etc!
One thing I have learnt is if I do not want IP access I can save a lot of money but I do need IP access as I don't have my own phone line in the premises but have been offered access to a spare lan port in a router to use for offsite access. And who knows what would happen if I was overseas and the I had to remotely access the system, I am keeping the remote access via IP as a back up measure but maybe I will never need it....who knows?
I am looking at brands like but not limited too: Crow, Bosch, Challenger, Titan and a couple other devices I am now finding over the web and with google searches.
I will post up once I have made a final decision and purchased the items to do what I require.
regards,
AUS355
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