ED ford 11/93

[Svenok]

Nephew popped around today, but when he went to leave the car it no go.
I dont know ANYTHING about Fords,but I tink there's no spark OR very weak spark.
Crank it over for a couple of minutes and ya can smell pertol.

What do I need to look for and where is it.
I cant believe where the dizzy is or the coil, WTF why?

[Godzilla]

Hmmm, the distributors have a plastic unit on the side, its the electronic ignition module, these are known to fail and cause no go/no spark.

So happy i dont own a E series Ford any more.

Just confirm you dont have spark before going on the problem hunt in case its something else, then also check the coil, fuses etc

[Svenok]

I just connected an old spark plug up to one of the HT leads, clamped it against the lifting lug, and got the wife to crank it over, got spark but I've seen better, I've also just disconnect the battery to see if that reset any computer mumbo jumbo. FIIK!

[CONAXLE]

Godzilla right, they are known to fail.Check if you got spark on Ignition Coil,if there is, then the next to check is the grey module which is bolted on side of dizzy,I f you replace this and still no spark, the last component to check is the hall effect sensor insde the dizzy.These are the 3 main electrical components that makes the car to start.If all these 3 fails,then its a major component such as the immobiliser ECU or Engine ECU.but I suspect its highly likely be the Grey Module.

[keith1981]

i have an el i have just had problems with it was the crank angle sensor which is located in side the distributor they are a bitch to change buy a new distributor i paid 140 for mine from bursons

[bop]

From memory wasn't there a tach signal wire someware near the brake booster that can be checked with a DMM/Test light?

I will stand corrected buy it does ring a bell
Brian

[CONAXLE]

From memory wasn't there a tach signal wire someware near the brake booster that can be checked with a DMM/Test light?

I will stand corrected buy it does ring a bell
Brian

Only on EA/B Not on ED,they move that near or just above the bonnet cable release handle near the kick panel inside..

[Godzilla]

I use to carry some tools and a spare second hand known working dizzy with module in the boot for that special occasion.

The modules had a well known particular habit, the cars use to just conk out when hot, once the module got some heat into it. it would just stop the spark.

Svenok, if you have good spark, next step is the fuel system, check their is fuel coming to the injectors, pump should be making a noise through the filler cap, etc.

If you have a weak spark see my first post.

[Svenok]

looks like coil is knackered. Father in-law brought over a "prince of darkness" coil.
So I jerry rigged it up, This alone was a prick of a job!
Anyway it goes. So I sent the nephew to super cheap to get coil and he came back with this Bosch GT40T which also needs to be jerry rigged. I'll wait for tomorrow and see what Repco have one that just bolts on. If not I'll cut and shunt.

One question I have for Zilla how on earth does one change a dizzy on the run? (not literally)

Hell how does one do it, full stop?

[anyone]

One question I have for Zilla how on earth does one change a dizzy on the run?
Hell how does one do it, full stop?

carefully, im sure godzilla will oblige

[Godzilla]

Old fashioned way.

Remove the dizzy cap, and mark/scratch where the rotor button is pointing on the dizzy.

Take note of how the dizzy is sitting in the block, roughly where on a full circle it sits, i usually note where the ignition module is point to.

Undo one bolt holding the dizzy down, remove bolt and dizzy hold down plate.

Lift dizzy, as you lift it the rotor button will turn, take note of how far it turns.

Position new dizzies rotor button where old one was when you removed it.

Slide new dizzy in, as it goes in the rotor button will turn to the original fitted position, once bottomed out check that the dizzy ignition control module is pointing the same way as the old one, when it is check the rotor button is pointing to the same place you marked on the old dizzy.

If not remove dizzy, turn rotor button clockwise or anti clock wise to suit and replace dizzy and recheck.

Replace hold down plate and nut and tighten.

5 Min job if the engine is cold, if its hot its 15 minutes and a bit of swearing.

[Svenok]

I still dont know how you manage to get it out, there's so much crap in the way it looks impossible, I cant even see the bolt that holds it to the block.
IMHO not a very good design. Maybe ok back in the 60's when there wasnt EFI, and the engine bay was big enough to sit in.

I could be wrong here but has Ford actually changed the motor since the 60's?

[Godzilla]

On the front RHS where the air inlet pipe is going to the manifold you can slip your arm in, there is a tunnel there to work through.

Sort of like examining a cows rear.

[Svenok]

it's a small hole to be sure.

[Godzilla]

Yep thats it, look you can even see the cap.

Some like to do it from under the car, especially the coil you want to replace, first time i replaced a coil was from under the rear of the engine from behind the engine mount, there is heaps of room there to work as the coil is further back.

Ah, dont complain about how hard it is to work on, you should try working on a GTR, most parts you wont see, you work on feel only.

[weirdo]

it's a small hole to be sure.

God forgot to tell you to use a smaller arm

[Svenok]

It goes,took other coil back to super cheap and went to Repco off the shelf plug n play, ($12 bucks cheaper). I've told the nephew to get a subscription with the RAA.

P.S I forgot to say thanks to the help you all gave.