Reply With QuoteThis is a good site to explain how it works. Wouldnt be too hard to replicate but would be good to confirm the exact ideal voltage on your volvo.
I think the O2 sensor has very small voltage swing...in the order of half a volt?
This is a good site to explain how it works. Wouldnt be too hard to replicate but would be good to confirm the exact ideal voltage on your volvo.
Originally Posted by global88
A bit ahead of you there
have a look at this....bloody great !
The man fixed it under warranty today.
It required an extra piece of air hose from the converter to the air cleaner.
Something about pressure equalisation when throttle closed...
any way...runs perfect....so thanks for all the tech info guys.
(lambda sensor behaving as well)
Your joking, he forgot to fit the balance tube during the instal lol.
Yep your definetly one step ahead, im starting to get sick of resetting my ecu and always had this idea on my mind but never got around to it.
Yourve saved me having to "think" with that link, now to find some time for yet another project.
Just remember if your volvo starts running rich (and it will) you know what to build now.
cheers
its just a 555 timer...less than $10 at Jaycar, including a vero.
30 minutes work.
A damn useful diagnostic tool if you are in the business I reckon.
I cannot belive that these things are not fitted "standard" by installers.
They would have many more happy customers and dual fuel wouldnt have such a bad name.
Maybe a way to keep customers comming back every 10000 km for a tune (read battery disconnect and a $200 bill).
Oh bugger...still going with this one, now she wants to keep going at 80km/h even after you take foot off accelerator pedal.
She takes ages to slow down....at least she don't stall anymore.
Wow, i cant belive the bad luck your having.
The throttle lever is returning all the way back and not binding, return spring still connected, happening on both fuels?
I dont think its a lpg thing if its on both fuels.
Also check all the connectors around the throttle body.
Do you have cruise control?
Looks like another trip back to your lpg man.
I have heard from MANY people of bad lpg installs, work being done by installers who dont have a clue. This is why i advise people to go to taxi lpg installers, they know their stuff backwards.
Mine has always run like a dream.
More details please z80, both fuels? at any speed? have you tryied to slip the transmission into neutral while slowing down and noted the rpm its holding? does the rpm drop back to normal once stationary?
only on gas, throttle not binding, if I slip it into neutral it winds quickly down to 1500 rpm, then slowly to about 800 rpm.
The vehicle has torque compensation in the throttle stop assembly.
If you wack it in drive the idle increases to compensate.
I think it needs a closed loop system incorporating oxygen sensor monitoring etc.
This is what I proposed he try....he didn't know it had an oxygen sensor till I pointed it out to him....
Fuel economy has improved dramatically since he last worked on it though....
He didnt know it had a oxygen sensor?
He does know its a 93 model?
He is a licenced installer?
I think you need to see him while your in a pissed off mood
You should point out to him that your cars not a TAFE test car.
Remember the pipe he forgot to fit........id be reminding him, fixed one thing f**ked another.
I dont know if the idle compensator works via ecu or vacuum sensor or both signals, remember the balance pipe he fitted may be playing havoc with the system atm.
Also remember your wife and kids are in a car with far longer braking distances, and its a death trap at the moment, not to mention the extra wear and heat on your brake pads.....
Having said all a closed loop system would have been the way to go, but what id be asking myself is could i trust him to do it...properly
90% of the time when you have to deal with stalling at idle or on deceleration is due to the LPG mixture being to lean. most cars dont like the recomended idle co levels most prefer slightly rich mixture.
quite often if you get black smoke from the motor when running on petrol it is caused by the MAP sensor vacuem pipe either coming off or been blown of by a LPG backfire...every motor needs to be set up by power/economy/load/etc as some motorists want power and speed others want economy and just a nice steady drive
He didnt know it had a oxygen sensor?
He does know its a 93 model?
He is a licenced installer?
I think you need to see him while your in a pissed off mood
You should point out to him that your cars not a TAFE test car.
Remember the pipe he forgot to fit........id be reminding him, fixed one thing f**ked another.
I dont know if the idle compensator works via ecu or vacuum sensor or both signals, remember the balance pipe he fitted may be playing havoc with the system atm.
Also remember your wife and kids are in a car with far longer braking distances, and its a death trap at the moment, not to mention the extra wear and heat on your brake pads.....
Having said all a closed loop system would have been the way to go, but what id be asking myself is could i trust him to do it...properly
LOL....gotta make sure I exhaust all diplomacy before heading down the path of threatening him.
It's a car i got for the kids...so it's not an inconvenience to me.
At least I get a full tank of gas every time he works on it.
okay got car back yesterday and he fitted the closed loop setup at no cost.
looks like a small microprocessor etc and some more plumbing.
The Lambda light still came on after 50ks.
Is the Lambda error anything to worry about?
Hi z80, yes id be questioning the lambda light comming on after fitting a closed loop system.
Congratulations on getting it converted to closed loop for free btw.
Wrong mixes?
Faulty lambda sensor?
Loose/cracked hose?
Faulty maf or map sensor?
Did some research and found many lpg volvo and golf forums discussing the same matter.
They all came back to the same answers a i posted above.
Main thing is dont panic about it but certainly get it looked out.
Hi Guys,
I reckon the screw on the gas system you are talking about is the main mixture not the idle screw.
The idle mixture scew is on the converter.
The major thing is to get it right on Petrol first, the screw on the throttle body is not the idle screw adjusting this will upset the ECU real bad.
The idle screw will be on the idle air control valve, which is set by the ECU in most cases, but some do have a idle air bypass.
With elec fuelinj cars the idle is set by passing air not mixture, mixture is set by ecu.
So:
PETROL FIRST
1) Disconnect Battery, to let ecu lose all old data
2) Take throttle body off car and set the the throttle plate opening with feeler gauge as to factory spec, and put back on car.
2) Re-Connect Battery, it sholud have no power left in by now.
3) the factory manual will tell you how to set the idle speed, if the ecu dosnt do, it via air control valve automaticly.
4) once you have it running on petrol properly again you can now switch to gas,
GAS TUNNING
1)The main mixture valve I hope you can put back where they set it on the dyno.. or you will need to get this re set, the good thing with gas is to lean will not burn out the engine like petrol.
The engine will proberly idle fast now.
2) on the converter you will find the idle screw adjust the gas idle speed from there, NOT AT THROTTLE BUTTERFLY. or at the main mixture valve..
If you were in Adelaide I could do all this work for you, I have all the test gear to do it..
What all you guys are saying is not wrong just a bit off track..Sorry if i have offended anybody, it is not my intenshion.
tony@ipbv.net
aious.com.au
I think you are absolutely correct,
now to find the throttle body setting procedure.....
I think i saw it in here
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