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Thread: VT Commodore won't start

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    Senior Member DND's Avatar
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    You must of started something because now My VT the battery light is flickering on and off when you drive along..



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    Quote Originally Posted by leginau View Post
    just inder your coils the wires some times gets a break or loose connection.
    this is worth a look at, I have heard of this a few times happening

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    Quote Originally Posted by best4less View Post
    Bring back the straight 6 cyl engines with a carby on top and 6 leads FFS LOL
    Yep, the best setup, when the carbs use to block we use to swap the firing order around on the leads to make the engine have a intake backfire, presto, no more blocked carb jets.

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    Senior Member Tradesman's Avatar
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    that trick used to work on Datsun Bluebirds too. those pigs of cars would run rough for multiple reasons

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    Quote Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
    Yep, the best setup, when the carbs use to block we use to swap the firing order around on the leads to make the engine have a intake backfire, presto, no more blocked carb jets.
    Tried that last week on my lovebuss,but didnt work.will have to pull all apart and its cold and i dont feel like it,bugger.
    dreamax 600,strong 4663

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    Quote Originally Posted by DND View Post
    this is worth a look at, I have heard of this a few times happening


    This is the DFI module that I mentioned earlier. Definately worth a look at !!
    When I was a kid, I used to have an imaginary friend. I thought he went everywhere with me. I could talk to him and he could hear me, and he could grant me wishes and stuff too. But then I grew up, and stopped going to church.

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    For cleaning jets and other brass items in a carb, the best solution is CLR,

    put the bits in a small bottle and shake the sh9t out of them for about 5 mins, worked awsomely on my 25hp merc outboard.

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    Default Won't start tries to turn but something's stopping it

    Hi guys,found that the cut out needed to re sync and turned ignition on,turn key and turn on the power for 2 hours.my good friend found it started and drove well.it did stop again shortly after once but Just needed to re sync it for another 2 mins and it seems to have solved my problem.try to trouble shoot the simple things first instead of wasting time looking for the big things that cost money.hope it helps






    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyPatrol View Post
    The car was running fine the night before when parked. Next day the key is turned and the engine turns over and it tries to fire and tries to start but won't.
    I had an issue a couple of years ago where it seems the body controller got in a knot and the cure was remove battery power to reset it. I did this but made no difference.
    I checked the computer codes and all is ok but I may of cleared any codes from the computer when I disconnected the battery!
    I pulled each spark plug lead off one by one and put a screw driver up and held close to earth and spark from all 6 leads.
    I puttled a couple of plugs out and they are wet so there is fuel. Also you hear the pump pressurise the fuel.
    So now I'm at that point where I'm not sure where to look.
    For a while it was taking 2 cranks to start but I was just putting this down to age.

    Any advice on what to check next?

    Should of bought that new XR6 last year lol

    Leroy
    Last edited by Lyndoncox28; 07-12-12 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Typo

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    Default vt v8 ss commodore wont start

    my vt v8 ss commodore wont start. turn the key dash lights etc all come on but turn key nothing happens. then another time i can go out n try to start it it will start but run like crap n backfire a bit once it warms up it runs fine. not game to take it out cause if i turn it off dont know if it will restart. have tried letting it sit for period then trying to start but that did nothing. have spent $1300 getting things replaced n it still no good originally started cause it needed c2sensor which led to new cats to new fuel pump n fuel lines n tank being cleaned to new ecu now has starting problem but was running well after had all this work done to it but wasnt idling real well when first started got better once warmed up any ideas what i can try to fix this problem?? waiting on mechanic to come n pick it up again but for last couple of months been without it more than have had it n i need a car i can use n know i am going to get it home again not game to drive anywhere cause if i turn it off to get fuel may be stuck in servo for days
    when i get in it to start it i turn the key the dash lights do their thing but the engine looking light the battery light and the oil light stay on n it wont even turn over. i did try to clutch start it and that worked but cant always park on hill so not game to go out in it at the moment as i said
    Last edited by Lee-Anne; 08-11-14 at 01:55 AM.

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    Is the immobiliser light turning off when you turn the key on?
    If the light is still flashing when the dash lights are on, you'll need to replace the metal ring around the ignition.
    Sometimes the metal knob on the key fob doesn't make proper contact with the metal ring and won't turn the immobiliser off.
    It's a cheap fix - less than 10 bucks from holden.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyPatrol View Post
    Unfortunately I don't think the old inline donks cut it these days. Well maybe the old Nissan 3.0l that was in the VL.
    Mine has 307,000km's on the clock and gets less than 10l/100 on the highway still.

    Leroy
    Lol I found this thread when looking for something else. Still have the crapadoore and its got 387,000km on the clock now and not missed a beat since this little hiccup. We really were seriously going to retire it last Feb but decided to roll the dice and pay the rego and insurance for another year. Its definitely being retired next Jan/Feb.

    Leroy.
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    After I changed the ignition barrel only in a pre 2000 Ford wagon, it wouldnt turn the starter over so thinking the wiring plug on the end wasnt connecting properly, I held the key over and I gave the steering wheel a thump with the heel of my hand and it started !!
    It seems this percussive starting method was known and the cause wasnt because the plug wasnt connecting but some body module under the dash was known to suffer from loose connections so changing the lock barrel really had nothing to do with it not starting.
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by DND View Post
    You must of started something because now My VT the battery light is flickering on and off when you drive along..
    Iv'e had the same problem twice. I found it was a loose fan belt. The other time I found the alternator was stuffed.

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    Years ago I had a Morris Nomad and one day the RED warning light came on and stayed on and it was caused by a diode failure in the rectifier pack mounted on the firewall so I never replaced it because it still charged the Battery normally.

    Another time I wasted a couple of hours and money taking a car into an Auto Electricians because of the warning light blinking and glowing and when I went to remove the alternator for them to do a static test, I near burnt the back of my hand on the hot pulley wheel (belt slipping) and the alternator moved 'out', taking up near 3/4 of an inch slack in the belt.........

    Then I had an alternator fail but it never showed the warning light that it wasnt charging.
    I stand unequivicably behind everything I say , I just dont ever remember saying it !!

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