I found by putting a PC fan with a 9v power supply it stops the overheating. Cheers.
Wont putting a fan in their end blowing dust everywhere and potentially cause problems?
If there is a way of using an external phoenix (a JayCar MKII) - it hardly makes the card warm ...
Your not trying to cool the plastic your trying to cool the chip , could have a white card with no burn mark stop, your only stopping the heat from escaping the area and cooling the plastic at the same time (which is why no brown mark) . the chip is still gettting hot !! . A heat sink is the better way and no fan needed . . .
But all to his own . if it works for you then great and its always good to see people sharing knoledge .
Thanks gw1 between your first post and second I have come up with a working solution.
After trying your second mod the the TDA8004 shut down ( too much current draw?) . I was at a loss with what to do and then re read your earlier post where you express concern for overloading the TDA.
I have taken the 5v straight from the 5v input to the board (pin 2) and I am only using the 47uf tant on the output of the voltage regulator without the 180R resistor or the .47uf cap on the input of the voltage regulator and I get 3.3v at the card and it works fine.
The card runs very cool significantly cooler than in a cam about the same temp as my card in a programmer.
Thanks again
ktm200
Hi Guys,
I have been informed by an Mate that this mod is the easiest for Humax's: just gently desolder the third leg on the chip and then earth it and hey presto 3 Volts and the card runs cool. Has been running it for a week and no probs.
Photos below:
Here are some pics of the slightly modded gw1 humax mod.
regards
ktm200
Just solder a wire to anything on chassis that can be earthed. This part not necessary just added safety measure.
I see that you can now buy external card readers for Strong receivers to avoid the heating problem...
See the other thread regarding the 'factory' mod.
Card now very cool..
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