Spa Pool Pump No Go!

**NZ Alarm Tech** · 01-09-12, 08:44 PM

Hi guys. I'm trying to repair pump electronics and first time fixing one of these. Does anyone have experience with one of these:

Waterco Portapac Electronic D/LED

What makes the pump run? At the moment it doesn't go and I have replaced the thermostat switch and transformer. These were faulty, not sure what blew them. Any more info, just ask. Thanks!

**SS Dave** · 01-09-12, 10:45 PM

Gidday NZ Alarm Tech

My spa pump won't go unless the water detector in the heating element is submerged

SS Dave

**gordon_s1942** · 02-09-12, 09:59 AM

I was given a pump, a 240V 1.5hp from a spa and all it has is a standard mains cord, nothing else.
I never saw the spa so I have no idea what if any 'electronics' were used to control the motor/heaters etc.
With that 'water detector' SS Dave mentions, in a washing machine I found a water level detector that was a sealed metal device with a small diameter plastic hose on the bottom that connected to the bottom of the tub and wires on the top. Apparently when the water level rises it fills this tube and the air trapped inside pushes on a diaphragm closing the switch, could you have something similar in circuit with the motor ?

**donk** · 03-09-12, 10:32 PM

Umm does the pump internal parts spin OK...eg is the shaft and shaft seal OK? I'd start there, if the pump housing etc are corroded etc, probably not worth going further. If all OK, is the bearing in the end cap OK....windings and brushes etc OK... then look at controller, pressure tranny OK

**donk** · 03-09-12, 10:34 PM

Ahh also forgot, check the air switch

**eeprommemory** · 04-09-12, 09:21 PM

i have repaired 2 spas recently one had a davey pump and some other brand both of them the start capacitor was stuffed.
the davey was a pain in the ass to open the stainless steel screws would not come out and had to be drilled out the capacitor leaked some strange looking silver stuff the other brand pump had a small crack in the capacitor replaced them and all good.

**eeprommemory** · 04-09-12, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by donk

Umm does the pump internal parts spin OK...eg is the shaft and shaft seal OK? I'd start there, if the pump housing etc are corroded etc, probably not worth going further. If all OK, is the bearing in the end cap OK....windings and brushes etc OK... then look at controller, pressure tranny OK

brushes ?????????????.
every spar i have looked in has induction motors in them.

**premsat** · 04-09-12, 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by NZ Alarm Tech

Hi guys. I'm trying to repair pump electronics and first time fixing one of these. Does anyone have experience with one of these:

Waterco Portapac Electronic D/LED

What makes the pump run? At the moment it doesn't go and I have replaced the thermostat switch and transformer. These were faulty, not sure what blew them. Any more info, just ask. Thanks!

Waterco spa pumps use a number of safety devices all of which are connected in series, so if any one of these devices goes open circuit, it will interrupt power to the pump. They commonly have thermostat, over temperature sensor and water pressure switch. Firstly disconnect the pump from the controller and power the pump motor directly from the mains [your model has a standard 3 pin plug as supplied in Australia - not sure about N.Z.] If the pump runs, re-connect to the controller and then locate and bridge each of the safety devices one at a time. If this fails to resolve the problem it is probably throw-away time since each of these devices operates via electronics and relays on the main PCB. Replacement boards for these units are not available as a spare part. Waterco list a complete control box at over $400.

**donk** · 05-09-12, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by eeprommemory

brushes ??
every spar i have looked in has induction motors in them.

Lol, yes you are right...half asleep and blond moment lol. Poor form on my part..hang the head in shame..spent a fair amount of time rebuilding pumps, vfd and Franklin subbies to big 32in centers...pease forgive me heeehee

**NZ Alarm Tech** · 04-10-12, 04:00 PM

Thanks for the info guys. Actually forgot I posted here. I know I hate Spa Pool Pumps. The pump motor runs fine directly connected. I found that one of the Optical Isolators (MC3052) was blown along with the Transformer. The air switch was fine and now the circuit appeared to work. If I shorted the contacts on air switch the pump ran with temp sensor removed. Plugging in the temp sensor stopped circuit working? This temp sensor is two resistors (680 ohm) in series in heat shrink fitted inside pipe into pump housing near heater element. Only guessing this is a temp sensor though.

**Orville L. Powell** · 16-04-14, 10:46 PM

If the water pump don't work then first we should check that power supply is good because mostly there is problem in power supply and the motor did not get the power. but there are further many complexities for blowing that.

**Orville L. Powell** · 21-04-14, 04:49 PM

Originally Posted by Orville L. Powell

If the don't work then first we should check that power supply is good because mostly there is problem in power supply and the motor did not get the power. but there are further many complexities for blowing that.

Anyone agree?

**lsemmens** · 21-04-14, 05:16 PM

apart from the fact that this thread is months old, and the post immediately prior to your explains that the pump does work when directly connected to power your response is, in actual fact, redundant.