You have already bought the PIR sensors ?
Dick Smith used to sell them if you haven't.
They come with a simple circuit example and they run on 12V.
Can anyone help me with a movement sensor activating a light or sound module diagram or can construct one for me. I am totally new to what I am doing but am eager to learn. I have purchased miniture pir sensors, resistors, potentionmeter? , LED lights, fibre optic strands and also sound modules.
My project is that I would like to place a movement sensor into a framed picture and as a subject walks by the lights turn on or the sound module plays the sound I have recorded onto it and after a few seconds they then turn off. An example is a bird sound and as they walk pass the picture the bird chirps. I have made a picture at this time with fibre optic lights in it but I have to turn the lights on and off when I want it to work. I would like a more professional effect that I don't need to turn it on and off but just by walking pass it, the lights activate. I am willing to assemble these myself but I need someone to show me how it can be done. Barry
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You have already bought the PIR sensors ?
Dick Smith used to sell them if you haven't.
They come with a simple circuit example and they run on 12V.
Trash
I have already purchased the PIR sensors and I am intending to connect them to a battery holder which includes 2 aa Batteries. Dick Smith no longer sells the miniture PIR's and they don't know what I'm talking about anyway. These sensors came from Jaycar through a non catalogued item.
Reality is an invention of my imagination.
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All PIR sensors require 12 volts so 2 AA batteries won't be enough to drive your project. Buy a 12 volt DC plugpack and that will run the project. The next thing you need is to understand that the relay contacts in a PIR are momentary - that is, they operate for a couple of seconds when movement is detected then return to their original state.
Most PIRs have normally open and normally closed contacts.
Your sound module will probably have a push button switch or input that requires a contact closure to operate it - but you will have to see how the unit operates. For example, if you push the switch, does it play the sound to the end then reset - and if you push the button a second time while it is playing, does it then return to the start and play from the beginning?
As people stand in front of your exhibit, they will move around, and trigger the PIR repeatedly, so you don't want the sound module to keep re-triggering.
This could be an issue that needs to be addressed.
Studio 1
I already have a unit which works that I dismantled , it was a Santa face that played a tune when someone came to our door and in his hat was the sensor and a wire went to a red light in his nose,it uses 2 AA batteries. So if a PIR sensor can only be used with 12volts have I got something which is not a PIR sensor? This is how this whole project started because this thing drove me mad so I took it apart and disconnected the voice and I attached more lights. The reason I can't duplicate this is that it was probably massed produced on its own curcuit board. It has about 50 parts attached and would be too expensive to reproduce in this manner.
The modules I have purchased are a 10 second recording, they play to the end even if pushed and then stops until something triggers it again. I suppose this maybe a problem if the picture was placed in a high traffic area but as most of my work goes into people's homes this is not an issue. Even if it bothers them they can just turn the battery power off.
Maybe a capacitance proximity detector could be the go. IIRC my (very) old Kitparts catalogue used to have a design, though I lost that book at least thirty years ago.
I still have a working circuit, but don't have the paper circuit for that sort of thing. It's the old hand plate in the glass you used to see at museums.
Place your hand on the glass and the circuit activates.
I also made an astable circuit that worked on a finely ballanced capacitance for an electric fence. An item was being stolen, the circuit waited for the theif to put his hand near the protected item before the circuit activated.
Hi Baz .. ok well not knowing what sort of sensor was in the Santa I really can't comment - it *may* have been a PIR - designed to operate off two AA cells, but my note about PIRs requiring 12 volts was in regards to the common PIRs that are used in security applications.
It is certainly possible that a circuit could be built which would drive the PIR sensing device and associated circuitry off 3 volts.
A lot of these novelties that come out of China and Japan have some pretty innovative technology in them.
The fact that your sound module plays from start to end with only one trigger pulse is a bonus.
A standard PIR wired with the normally open contacts across the press button of the sound module will do what you want it to. What I would suggest is a small timer circuit with a delay of around 30 seconds to 1 minute, wired with its relay output in series with the switch contacts of the sound module - and the trigger for the timer operated by the PIR. The idea here is that the sound module starts playing, and at the same time the switching line opens for say one minute, so that if people are moving around in front of the picture it doesn't keep playing over and over, but will play once, then not again for another minute - by which time people may have moved away. If they are still there, it will go again. The one minute delay will lessen the "frustrating noise" factor.
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