Reply With QuoteLooking at the board it is from left to right -
Tamper Tamper Alarm Alarm + -
If you need to be told where to put the EOL then you probably shouln't be doing it.
Zodiac PIR wiring
Can someone confirm the Zodiac PIR wiring for the alarm and tamper w resister. I am connecting to a NX4.
thanks
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Looking at the board it is from left to right -
Tamper Tamper Alarm Alarm + -
If you need to be told where to put the EOL then you probably shouln't be doing it.
+ and - red and black, commonsense
one leg (white or yellow) goes to alarm or NC
other leg, alarm or common C, put one end of resistor in there and couple with other leg (blue or green) to one of the tamper terminals,
and all should work,
When you walk test it should light that zone, when you arm it then wait for expiry of exit delay it should trip the alarm,
I have a diag here somewhere..
except the tamper wont work when you take the lid off
The system would be armed anyway chimp and would go off before you get the lid off.
No one I know wires the tampers in seperately any more.
Yeah ok, so what happens during the day time when someone messes around with the pir and takes the lid off, customer arms it at night and all is good because you cant be arsed wiring the tamper up, then the person that comes back and robs the place.
I know what your saying Chimp but as I said I don't know anyone in the industry that wires in seperate tampers unless specified (gov, defence etc) or where the panel uses dual eol. Prob should of wrote that last part on my above post so as not to give the impression of having a go, sorry mate.
The tampers in the zodiacs also have a tendency to not seal properly or will seal only to get a phone call the next day to say that a zone will not seal.
i understand what your saying Rotor and dont think im having a go at you either, however, if im installing single EOL stuff i still use the tamper.
I agree with chimp, if the tamper circuit is there. Use it.
If the zone is unsealed, customer can call for a service call
Mount your detectors straight and dont twist them with the screws. Never had a problem except for after moving ones that are 6+ years old.Originally Posted by rotor138
On brackets so not twisted. Never had the problem with any other detector and wire through the tampers on all the others (rx40, digi75, DT etc).
Why would anyone take the lid off, - if its because they are trying to get round the system, then they wont leave the lid off will they. Plus theres a screw to hold the lid on!
I have found tampers wired with alarm circuit only false alarm and create havoc, you cannot determine the fault and so do you replace the PIR or remove the tamper..
If its a high sec app then use a deol panel, or waste a zone on the tamper...
Why take the cover off when you can just spray the detector with gloss/ clear coat and it wont work anyways.
We only use anti spray detectors (also anti cloaking), only use commercial grade panels and install to A/S's, always put 2 detectors in to overlap acting as a backup to the other, detectors are cheap these days, we arent NO 2 detector company though for $0 or $ 295!
Your $ 295 system is our $ 2950 system....
Theres Installers and then theres technicians..Big difference.
Have to agree security tech some of the "installers" in the game now days I wouldn't let clean my toilet let alone install my security alarm.
Tamper Circuits should be wired independent of the alarm circuit. Use 6 core cable, it's readily available. Tamper circuits should be in a 24hr area or have a zone type of 24hr Burg.
When the system is off or in the disarmed state and someone "TAMPERS" with the detector or any device in the field it should "ALARM" all the bells and whistles. That's what a tamper means and thats how a tamper should act. Whether it's in the residential, commercial, financial or even government sectors.
People wiring tampers with the alarm circuit have done so in the past as a cost cutting exercise, which has become a bad habit in the industry. People generally do not want to spend the extra $$ on zone expansion boards. Quite frankly I steer clear of these sort of people/customers as my view is it should be about security and not money.
Think about it this way if tamper circuits are in series with alarm circuits then what stops someone with a little know how popping the cover and sealing the alarm circuit?
Anyway, there's security and there's security. It's up to the individual to educate the customer about why things are necessary.
My typical zone list would generally look like this;
Zone 1: Entry Door Reed Sw
Zone 2: Hallway PIR ALM
Zone 3: Hallway PIR TMP
Zone 4: Bedroom 1 PIR ALM
Zone 5: Bedroom 1 PIR TMP
etc.
Agreed George,
I used to like the sol862 with deol..
Wired many a detector with deol..
Now with sierras and concepts, its an every day excercise,
Did I mention the nx's do it also, actually many panel these days has deol, if its of any quality, dont think I install panels that dont have tamper protection,
Prefer not to use solution easiest panel to get round in the world,
I rarely use anything without electronic fuses either, (apart form concept)
Im not a 2 detector man, run in throw cables through the roof and collect my $$$
Im serious about security, some arent, some are..
We use Pulnix detectors because they are the best..
Like I said
Installer
Technician
When its 300 kms away or you cant get there for 2 weeks, UMMMM.. nah not me, Do it right first time.I agree with chimp, if the tamper circuit is there. Use it.
If the zone is unsealed, customer can call for a service call
Saw a saying the other day
Why can we always find the time to go back and make it right the 2nd time???
I was taught to do it right first time or dont do it, dont go back and if it takes half hour more to save driving 1 hr round trip tommorrow, then do it! No questions, DONT BE LAZY.
Are you implying that i am lazy ? I wouldn't say that
I would much rather connect the tamper in series with the alarm if the panel does not support DEOL
A decent installation should be back to base monitored and tamper alarms should not be audible
Either way, be carefull how you word responces no need to be rude
I would rather sell a system that is within the clients budget, see them with something rather then nothingWhy would anyone take the lid off, - if its because they are trying to get round the system, then they wont leave the lid off will they. Plus theres a screw to hold the lid on!
I have been to pleanty of premises where detectors are tampered with before b&e's
I have found tampers wired with alarm circuit only false alarm and create havoc, you cannot determine the fault and so do you replace the PIR or remove the tamper..
If its a high sec app then use a deol panel, or waste a zone on the tamper...
Why take the cover off when you can just spray the detector with gloss/ clear coat and it wont work anyways.
We only use anti spray detectors (also anti cloaking), only use commercial grade panels and install to A/S's, always put 2 detectors in to overlap acting as a backup to the other, detectors are cheap these days, we arent NO 2 detector company though for $0 or $ 295!
You mean anti cloaking & anti masking detectors
Your $ 295 system is our $ 2950 system....
Theres Installers and then theres technicians..Big difference.
There there ole chap, no need to get ruffled feathersAre you implying that i am lazy ? I wouldn't say that
Either way, be carefull how you word responces no need to be rude
take a chill pill brother and alls good.
Why do you think that point was directed at you,
To clarify charlie
ITS POINTED AT THE WORLD>...
Who do you work for,I would rather sell a system that is within the clients budget, see them with something rather then nothing
sounds like the big A???
2 detectors doesnt cover everything,
You can be found liable if your underselling..
I wont accept responsibility for a clients lack of $$$$
My reputation stands on undefeated systems, not how many I sell..
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