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Thread: Ford KE Laser Ignition Security Help

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    Member pak_indo's Avatar
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    Default Ford KE Laser Ignition Security Help

    Gday all,

    My KE laser was broken into and my ignition barrel broken -- it would exceed the value of the car to replace it. I am now using starting the car using the rotary switch attached to the barrel.

    Now, I am happy to keep doing this, but would like some suggestions on adding a kill switch. What wires are best to switch? It is a manual, so really I think it would switching the start wire would be not best. Would switching ignition 1 or 2 be better, or just switch the 12V?

    As an aside, would anyone have a wiring diagram (or know of where to get one) for the KE Laser?

    Thanks for any input.

    Cheers,

    Pak



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    Mate if you ring some wreakers you can pick one up for well under $50 and you dont have to muck around.

    Is the car electronic fuel injected or carb?

    If its efi you could cut into the fuel pump wire with a kill switch under the seat, in the boot, under the dash or glovebox.

    The other option is to kill ignition1 (ignition on) with a switch before your barrel.

    Just get a circuit tester and check your main power into the barrel switch.

    Edit; if you wanted to be really cheaky you could run the wire from your ignition coil into the cars cabin, through a kill switch and back to the coil.
    That should really screw up a theif as they do all their hot wireing under the dash and not under the hood.

    Many ways to disable a car mate.

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    thanks godzilla.

    car is carby.

    might sus out getting a barrel... probably easier, but in either case wanna put a kill switch in... so you rekon the go is to put a kill switch on ignition 1...though if I can get the time, I like the idea of running it from the ignition coil...

    thanks for the input mate... much appreciated!

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    It would be easyest and safest to run a wire from the coil imo.

    Should your wireing fail you could open the bonnet, find your connections and put them back to how they were origanaly on the side of the road with just a pair of pliers.

    You could wire it through 2 switches in diffrent places incase they find one of them to be extra difficult for them.

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    Senior Member z80's Avatar
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    Watch out that you don't hook the 12v straight to the coil in your enthusiasm.

    The ignition switch may have about a 2 ohm resistor in series, so the coil doesn't get the full volts except when in start position when engine cold.

    Symptoms will be that when coil gets to certain temperature, car will stop suddenly.
    Then when it cools to below "curie point" temperature it will start up again.

    ( about as long as it takes to lift the bonnet and shake head in anguish)

    A real hard fault to find later




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    Funny you mention that Zed ,years ago my brother wanted to buy a cheap mazda 808 that wasnt running and asked me to check it out for him.

    We discussed changing the engine before we got there, the guy selling it said that he had 4 mechanics look at it and couldnt get it to start.

    We paid the guy, pushed it out to the front of his house ready to tow it home and i deceded to have a play with it first.

    Less than 2 minutes later after bypassing the resistor she started, you should have seen the previous owners jaw drop.

    We got a bargin, drove the car home spent another $15 on it and it got him around while he went to uni.

    Pak indo, just break into the coil power, reroute it into a on/off switch and back to where it was suppose to go to.
    Your just breaking the connection with your switch, not rewireing the ignition system.
    Nice and easy.

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    Senior Member z80's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
    Funny you mention that Zed ,years ago my brother wanted to buy a cheap mazda 808 that wasnt running and asked me to check it out for him.

    We discussed changing the engine before we got there, the guy selling it said that he had 4 mechanics look at it and couldnt get it to start.

    We paid the guy, pushed it out to the front of his house ready to tow it home and i deceded to have a play with it first.

    Less than 2 minutes later after bypassing the resistor she started, you should have seen the previous owners jaw drop.

    We got a bargin, drove the car home spent another $15 on it and it got him around while he went to uni.

    Pak indo, just break into the coil power, reroute it into a on/off switch and back to where it was suppose to go to.
    Your just breaking the connection with your switch, not rewireing the ignition system.
    Nice and easy.

    Yeah...mine was for an LX Torana that always stopped on the south easter freeway just near the Burnley street exit.

    I got it cheap cause it had a problem that noone could fix.

    Owner told me probably the coil.
    So i bunged a new coil and thought i was right till 6 months later when the weather got hotter.

    In Summer it would get all the way from Ringwood to whithin about 400 metres of the Burnley street exit on the SE Freeway every day...stop...lift bonnet, fiddle and she's right again.
    The heart would start racing about Toorak rd....LOL

    Some one had done a motor replacement,
    damaged the loom and didn't know some of the wiring was resistive....

    A resistor in series with the 12v to the coil did the trick, just ran without a shunt to the ignition switch...never had a problem starting.



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