Bosch 16 Plus

**KAMBO** · 29-05-13, 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by downunderdan

You're looking in the wrong area. Stay away from the lighting. There may be two screw terminals in plain-sight on the back of the motor. If you have a pushbutton in the garage, see where that's connected (or splice into it).

I found this button mounted on a wall which eventually lead to the garage pcb, it's the wire with marking '1060' going through the grommet in post#36.

This has two wires in it which are brown & blue. These then go into cable joiners and the brown stays brown, the blue comes out white and they form pins 4&5 respectively on the connector which plugs into the pcb.

As I'd like to keep using this switch I plan on joining/splicing the wire from the control panel. Would the CM110 Output Expansion Module fit the needs? It looks friendlier then the jaycar relay/diode option (mounting/wiring etc). Would this work?

Here are some pics of the wiring.

**watchdog** · 29-05-13, 01:23 PM

Looks like you've found it. Just join a wire into each of those splices & run it to the normally open contacts on the relay board at the panel. The only place you can usually run cable to on the ground floor of a 2 storey house is the exterior walls and even that can be near impossible at times. Every place is different , you'll have to work it out for yourself.

**KAMBO** · 29-05-13, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by watchdog

Looks like you've found it. Just join a wire into each of those splices & run it to the normally open contacts on the relay board at the panel. The only place you can usually run cable to on the ground floor of a 2 storey house is the exterior walls and even that can be near impossible at times. Every place is different , you'll have to work it out for yourself.

One wire into N/O and the other to COM right? Live & Neutral respectively?

**watchdog** · 29-05-13, 04:44 PM

Originally Posted by KAMBO

One wire into N/O and the other to COM right? Live & Neutral respectively?

Don't call them that - it scares me. Doesn't matter which way around they are , there is no voltage it is just a switch

**TheAlarmGuy** · 29-05-13, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by watchdog

Don't call them that - it scares me. Doesn't matter which way around they are , there is no voltage it is just a switch

Not that there should be any voltage on the existing cables to the switch, it is always a good idea to get the meter out and check it anyway, both during normal and active states. The last thing you want is an unsafe voltage to be put into your panel/output module.

**KAMBO** · 29-05-13, 06:01 PM

OK. I shouldn't have called it that, it's just a wire n switch.

How do you measure the active state voltage?

**TheAlarmGuy** · 29-05-13, 06:12 PM

When the garage door is running is there any voltage on that cable.... there shouldn't be but its better to check before you plug anything into an unknown

**KAMBO** · 29-05-13, 06:24 PM

oh. i thought you meant measure the voltage while keeping the button depressed...nevermind

**KAMBO** · 09-06-13, 07:35 PM

Originally Posted by TheAlarmGuy

You can do whatever you want but I would be putting in an additional 12VDC 1.5 Amp power supply and having the Panel output drive a small relay board to turn on my piezos, I'd rather ruin that than risk my panel!

I just ran a cable for the RF Receiver and got some output trouble so I think I'll need accessory power anyways?
I wired the RF receiver, powered the panel and the output trouble triggered the siren+piezo!

The installation page for the RF321E says to connect +12 & GND to the panel yet the 16+ user guide says to connect to accessory power!???

Edit: further more, in the other the CCTV thread I posted that I had shorted +12 & COM, that is not the case, I've shorted COM & GND.
I was looking at the Solution 64 manual instead of the panel or 16+ manual when I wrote that...I had a Solution 64 wiring diagram printed and looked at my panel and was like wtf the piezo isn't across GND & N/O...

Now I understand the must not exceed 1A reference from the manual! I'm not sure how to add accessory power with redundancy!

**KAMBO** · 09-06-13, 11:33 PM

Originally Posted by watchdog

That relay is usually used for the internal piezo. If it is not used then yes you can reprogram it & use it to trigger the rolloer door. Otherwise you will need to program up O/P 3 (if it is not used) as an event type 53 or 54 (for button 3 or 4) , O/P polarity type 4 & Time parameter of whatever you want ( I use 20 x 1/10 sec)

So I've rigged the garage to open via output 5 for now until I get the RF thingy sorted...can you advise why you use polarity type 4? I'm not sure why option 15 Toggle On/Off isn't the preferred option? I don't understand the differences listed on page 28 of the quickstart guide.

**watchdog** · 10-06-13, 10:08 AM

Polarity type 4 = normally open , one shot low. Option 15 Toggle on/off ??????????????? differences on Pg 28 ???????????????????????
Your manual doesn't seem to be the same as mine

**KAMBO** · 11-06-13, 10:37 AM

Nm. The 16plus and solution 64 manuals are different. The hard link is working fine and I followed the programming guide to allow a pin to work the garage door with no access to my area. Quite handy, though if I get the rf working does this mean I cannot keep this function unless I short the NO on outputs 5&6 and program 6 with the buttons?

**watchdog** · 11-06-13, 01:37 PM

You've lost me , I don't know what your on about.

**KAMBO** · 11-06-13, 02:06 PM

So I've wired the garage to Output 5 and have programmed the keypad to open the garage (but not arm the alarm) when I enter the pin I set for another user using Event Type 56 = Follow Pin Code.

I'm going to get the RF3212E connected and want to know how to open the garage door (currently connected to Output 5) via the remote.
Can I short the N/O Output 5 & 6 and short COMs 5&6 then program Output 6 with Event 53?

**watchdog** · 11-06-13, 03:12 PM

Yes you can. It is advisable (but not mandatory) to isolate the two outputs from each other with a diode on each output. If you need to ask how then dont bother just do as you mentioned in the last post.

**KAMBO** · 11-06-13, 05:41 PM

Thanks watchdog.

Guys, I connected the RF3212E to the panel but upon power up the siren+piezo went off+I got an Output Trouble 0X001(??), all before I even connected the garage wiring to any outputs to the expansion board...so I thought it was an overload but this was not reported. I'm not sure what triggered the outputs.

The installation doc says to wire it straight to the panel but the 16+ manual says "Connect To Acessory Power". A google/thread search doesn't seem to advise for an answer or use CM120 boards etc..

I used a +12V & GND from Term 2. The setup is 6 pirs, 4 reeds, normal strobe+siren+piezo, voice module & expansion module. Any suggestions?

**watchdog** · 11-06-13, 10:43 PM

The connection diagram with the receiver is for the Ultima . The accessory power is the three +12V & three gnd terminals near the battery connection. If you have an output trouble then remove the outputs until you find it. It will have nothing to do with the receiver. What do you have on output 1?

**KAMBO** · 12-06-13, 11:57 PM

Originally Posted by watchdog

The connection diagram with the receiver is for the Ultima . The accessory power is the three +12V & three gnd terminals near the battery connection. If you have an output trouble then remove the outputs until you find it. It will have nothing to do with the receiver. What do you have on output 1?

I have the siren connected to Output 1 with no tamper (its on zone 16).
Tonight I connected the RF and haven't run into an output trouble, not sure how I think it was just loose wiring..

I also freed up one +12 & one GND for the only the receiver. Now, I have an issue which only presents itself when the receiver is connected...when connected the panel boots fine & there are no system troubles etc, but the siren/strobe/piezo outputs do not work when I go to test them, when I remove the receiver, the siren/strobe/piezo work fine...??

I'm not sure what this means..

**KAMBO** · 02-02-15, 05:16 PM

necro bump.
I haven't yet connected the rf receiver+keyfob to the panel..not sure why I stopped tinkering! Probably sick of hanging out with dead spiders.

Anyways, anyone know what could be causing this:

Originally Posted by KAMBO

I have the siren connected to Output 1 with no tamper (its on zone 16).
Tonight I connected the RF and haven't run into an output trouble, not sure how I think it was just loose wiring..

I also freed up one +12 & one GND for the only the receiver. Now, I have an issue which only presents itself when the receiver is connected...when connected the panel boots fine & there are no system troubles etc, but the siren/strobe/piezo outputs do not work when I go to test them, when I remove the receiver, the siren/strobe/piezo work fine...??

I'm not sure what this means..

Lastly, another issue which reminded me to come here!
My panel calls me @ 2am...anyone know where the setting is to change this

Save me going through the books!