Reply With QuoteLose weight !
Cheap Power?
Hey guys.. I drive a 94 GSi integra, only a kinda basic knowledge about cars..
I was wondering what i could do to my car to get some more grunt out of it keeping in mind the P-plate laws so obviously no turbo but something that wouldnt cost me a whole lot?
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Lose weight !
theres a few mods out there for integras the most obvious ones would be CAI(cold air intake so change yourpanel filter to a good pod and change thhe intake pipe and box it up.should set u back more than a 150 if you do some work yourself. The you can go exctractors-high flow cat-straight through exhaust...
already got the exhaust goin str8 thru from the extractors
intake does sound good tho
Remember changing things just tells your future buyer that the car has been flogged. If you want to get a better car when off the P's keep it standard for that short time and look after ite resale value , then buy what turns you on.
Normally thats enough said but if it were one of my kids I would say spend your money on a defensive driving course which might save your life at some future time. In any event try to get to a flat muddy cleared area and drive round and throw your car around in slips ,slides, control and braking . You learn so much by this I can tell you -no accidents in 50 years driving . Oh yeh Grandad he says!
I used to do that wen i owned a laser, but then i lost me licence for a bit, got rid of the laser and upgraded to the integra, so now im jus lookin for a bit more grunt lol.. Basically i flogged the laser till it died by doing the handbrake thing lol but thats because it was a $900 car, where as this one is a $7k car so i jus want it to go fastOriginally Posted by tytower
no offence intended mate but you shouldnt bel ooking for more power if youve already lost your lisence.I used to do that wen i owned a laser, but then i lost me licence for a bit, got rid of the laser and upgraded to the integra, so now im jus lookin for a bit more grunt lol.. Basically i flogged the laser till it died by doing the handbrake thing lol but thats because it was a $900 car, where as this one is a $7k car so i jus want it to go fast
True but ah well
Ftoking was right with the cold air intake.
Fit a pod cleaner inside your air cleaner box.
Bore a large hole (4 inch) under your air cleaner box. (not visable to police)
Optional add a pipe from the hole you bored to under the front bumper or near the grill for direct cold air intake not effected by under the hood temperatures.
From that point some $....
Machine some weight off your flywheel (lighten) for better, crisper reving and response.
Take your head off and shave it down to bump up your compression.
Get a die grinder and open the short side radius around the valves for better breathing.
Fit larger cams.
Chip the ecu.
The $ could just keep adding up, depends how far you want to go.
Personally id do just the intake mod and lighten the flywheel when the clutch needs changing as your allready there.
Yes to all the above, but especially chipping the ECU as Godzilla said. Nobody can tell (Cops) and it adds a few HP/KW.
I wouldn't bother with it.
If you've lost your licence once already then you're a slow learner and you should not be hotting up a car.
The money would be better spent on an advanced driving course. It probably will save your life at some stage, and at a minimum it will save you an avoidable smash.
An Example... The advanced driving course might teach you to steer the car off to the side of the road in a situation when you know you can't stop in time, rather than running up the back of someone.. I have performed this manouvre at least a dozen times in the past 15 years of driving, I have never run up the back of someone and I have clocked up nearly 2 million km on the road.
Little things like that will save you insurance claims, headaches, at-fault accidents, etc.
When you get off your P's, buy another car that is suitable to your driving capability.
If you must waste some money now, buy an Aluminium flywheel. They weigh 50% of what a lightened stock flywheel weighs and if done right, the throttle response will be similar feeling to installing a small turbo.
Pods and exhausts give little gain and waste fuel, make your car obnoxious and sound like a wet fart.
Save up and buy a turbocharged car later and modify that. MUCH more rewarding. Turbos are damn fun!
I disagree with adding a aluminium flywheel for street use. For track use yes.
Most aluminium flywheels wear themselves very quickly, some very expensive ones now have a hardened replaceable inserts which extends life but are very expensive.
They also have a tendancy to expand with heat and loosen themselves with time. Even with lock plates the aluminium gives and may lead to catestrophic failure in heavy street use.
When combined with a heavyduty pressure plate the bite can be a little harsh for street use after they bed in.
Great on track where service and maintanace is regular and your not launching off the line constantly.
Going too light can have an opposite effect on a small displacement motor.
By removing too much weight you lose the ballast momentem from the engine to launch off the line without needing massive amounts of rpm and clutch slip.
You want some, not all weight off the flywheel, enough to add quick revving responsiveness to the engine but also still have enough push through the driveline.
Car manufactures would have already made them super small and light to save a $.
Pods and exhaust mods are the first mods a person should undertake. Most horsepower mods are useless without these basic mods first.
The simplest way to explain this is think of an engine as a air pump. The less restriction for air going in and out the more volume it can flow and therfore more power produced.
Hence bigger cams, ported heads, extracters, pods and cold air intakes.
Its all about breathing.
Coupled with a remapped ecu to control timming and fuel the engine should burn the same air/fuel mixes as a standard engine but yes use more fuel as its producing more hp.
You dont see F1 or drag cars getting 35mpg.
Bolbous was right when he posted lose some weight.
Its the best way to pickup performance in a Honda under acceleration, braking and midcornering.
Problem is you cant carry passangers after your seats have been pulled out and its pretty uncomfortable without the carpet and interior.
Plus you will look like a wanker driving it down the street.
Without repeating what the boys have already mentioned like CAI, UD pulley, Extractors etc. Try the following 6 steps for under $50.00 to get approx 5 - 10 whp.
1. Index Your Plugs
The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno proven time and time again. Mark the side on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug, faces the intake side of your cylinder head.
2. Insulate Fuel Lines
Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better overall mixture.
In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.
3. Relocate IAT Sensor
In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your factory service manual to find its location.
At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra horsepower.
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.
4. Synthetic Oil
Synthetic oils definitely make more power over standard oils. In fact, anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.
Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic. Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a far better lubricant and protector of your engine.
5. Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant
If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is always going to produce more horsepower.
Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However, NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion.
6. Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
Get back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose.
If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve), and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed. This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty hard to explain in a "universal" manor.
At the end of the day guys more power = morepetrol = more you rev your car more petrol you use...I disagree with adding a aluminium flywheel for street use. For track use yes.
Most aluminium flywheels wear themselves very quickly, some very expensive ones now have a hardened replaceable inserts which extends life but are very expensive.
They also have a tendancy to expand with heat and loosen themselves with time. Even with lock plates the aluminium gives and may lead to catestrophic failure in heavy street use.
When combined with a heavyduty pressure plate the bite can be a little harsh for street use after they bed in.
Great on track where service and maintanace is regular and your not launching off the line constantly.
Going too light can have an opposite effect on a small displacement motor.
By removing too much weight you lose the ballast momentem from the engine to launch off the line without needing massive amounts of rpm and clutch slip.
You want some, not all weight off the flywheel, enough to add quick revving responsiveness to the engine but also still have enough push through the driveline.
Car manufactures would have already made them super small and light to save a $.
Pods and exhaust mods are the first mods a person should undertake. Most horsepower mods are useless without these basic mods first.
The simplest way to explain this is think of an engine as a air pump. The less restriction for air going in and out the more volume it can flow and therfore more power produced.
Hence bigger cams, ported heads, extracters, pods and cold air intakes.
Its all about breathing.
Coupled with a remapped ecu to control timming and fuel the engine should burn the same air/fuel mixes as a standard engine but yes use more fuel as its producing more hp.
You dont see F1 or drag cars getting 35mpg.
Bolbous was right when he posted lose some weight.
Its the best way to pickup performance in a Honda under acceleration, braking and midcornering.
Problem is you cant carry passangers after your seats have been pulled out and its pretty uncomfortable without the carpet and interior.
Plus you will look like a wanker driving it down the street.
CAI/Full Exhasut is the way to go...flywheel dont even bother mate unless the gearbox is droped adn your working on a cluth job..all its oging to give you is mayby an extra tenth of a second on 0-100 it will decrease toruq from waht i udnerstand but improve acceleration down low that is....(correct me if im wrong here)
if iwas you id remove all unessary weight eg(spare tyre...the shelf abovehthe tyre the jack....)
i wanted to see what 0-100 time i could get in my fto its N/A btw and i got if my watch was correct close to 6 seconds...thats with alot ofm ods most of em done in japan!
All good points George, good post.
So many ways to find performance.
Wouldnt want a flat tyre if i got rid of the spare Ftoking.
0 to 100 in 6 seconds is not bad for a N/A engine.
I can go on about porting/polishing the throttle body and removing the mesh from the MAF sensor, porting and polishing that, but these two mods are something left to the experienced.
For Example;
I wouldnt get too carried away with removing the mesh from the maf, the gain in flow is so small.
Removeing the mesh also creates overfuelling in GTR's, owners find they run better and more accuratly with them on.
Never the less your point is about flow and its the number one thing in building hp.
The best thing for the Maf is a regular clean in contact cleaner to keep the probes clean and therefore meter a little more accuratly.
Once you get to large volumes of air the original Maf 's tend to max out well before max hp/flow is reached and then people fit larger ones and recallibrate the ecu to suit the new larger Maf.
Porting.....the most rewarding job, ive spent many weeks working on heads sometimes destroying heads in search of the perfect flow.
Many people think its just about max flow but sometimes a little less air volume in the ports produces a faster air/fuel flow.
So many variables that can change the torque/ hp chart that people have to think about first.
Where you want your torque and hp, early, late or flat...rpm range. etc
Lol, nice pics and work George.
thanks...it isnt to shabby and that time includes the tip it took for me to look at the watch to so mite of been less actualyl. i think i think its quite fast and alot of fun around cornersi dont think anything beats the feeling of a N/a car around a tight corner lol....personal preference though..
My FTO is as follows....comes from factory with 150kw 2.0L V6 Mivec Engine car weighs 1100kg roughly...
Since it came from factory:
Heavy Duty Sports Tuff Clucth:
Lighter/better Flywheel not stock one (has a jap symbol on it done it japan).
Tein Coilovers:
Extractors
2.75inch piping from the cat to a straight through cannon.
HIgh Flow metal cat
UAS intake pipe (red thing in the pic)
HKS Super Power Flow
Boxed up with two cold air feeds from the front bar
Short Shifter
Mivec Controller
Sloted Rotors
Front and rear strut braces
So yeh not to shabby quite happy
next thing im going to get: e-manage blue
Dont mind the idea of chipping the ecu, but where would i get something like that from? Are we talking about the little $30 dollar jobs off ebay or what?
Also the pod in the box with a hole, mite get onto that this w/e..
And as for those who dont think i should because of losing my licence, I'm young and dumb so i waste money.. But wasting it on my car is funlol
People have been trying to get petrol motors to go quicker and quicker since they were invented . Use common sence . These motors are designed by people like Honda ,Suzuki etc to be peak power machines for racing then mass produced and muffled down to suit a market and as such these days it means emmission standards to be met.
Most of the power is still there .Try to find out aboout your motor and modify it for power not emissions . Some of what's been mentioned fits into this ,some doesn't.
When the piston goes down it sucks air and fuel in. The motor has a limit on how much it can suck so without turbochargers some of these modifications will be useless. They can only apply when your foot is flat on the gas pedal anyway. You will waste a lot of money on this for little gain . Go to a professional for an opinion and shop around or you will be sold what they want to get rid of that week.
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