Magnetic engine

[mikemunro]

I after the generator section is competed and working , I'll be connected to an alternator an charging the battery pack that will be connected to either 1.5 or 2kw inverter , I'v had the engine running for over 72 hours on the battery before it died .. ONLY heat from the engine is in the coil section but it's kept down by cold air being forced through the cylinder .

This is very clever and way beyond my comprehension of what makes it work, but I do believe that you will get there with in the end. Good Luck!

[south_oz]

thanks , the generator case is printing atm (going to take 16 hours lol) so in the mean time , putting a boxer style engine together out of spare parts (2 cylinder ) just to see how it'll go

[Uncle Fester]

I after the generator section is competed and working , I'll be connected to an alternator an charging the battery pack that will be connected to either 1.5 or 2kw inverter , I'v had the engine running for over 72 hours on the battery before it died .. ONLY heat from the engine is in the coil section but it's kept down by cold air being forced through the cylinder .

You should try to find out why the coil is getting hot because that is your major loss, although I find it hard to believe that you are powering it with such a small power tool battery for 72 hours on one charge. Assuming it has a typical capacity of 2.2Ah, that is 21.12Wh or 0.293watts in 72 hours. Your coil should be able to dissipate one third of a watt without any noticeable temperature increase at all, even without that forced air cooling, which is also an energy consumer, not to mention all the other sources of friction.

Why do you want to connect the alternator to such powerful inverters? They have typically 20-30W of loss alone.
I am guessing that is all your motor will effectively produce once under load.
Connect a 12V 50W halogen bulb to the alternator and then see what happens. The try a 20W bulb when that doesn't work.

I hope you are aware that you will never get more energy than you put in and a 9.6V power tool battery is not very much.

[south_oz]

what can I say , logically , physically and electrical wise it shouldn't work as well as it does , study the video , it has speed and power (granted no where near a petrol engine or a standard electric engine of the same size) .. the one in video is my small engine (the weakest ) , the material I use to construct it is standard 3d printer filament abs re-blended with some of my own recipe. there is little to no heat created with friction (the piston , cylinder and crank have never heated to point that it ever felt hot .. just room temperature ), there is off cause extra drag associated with friction but that's not a problem , No matter what any one has told me so far I havent stopped working on it , so despite the fact it seems imposable to attractive I'll continue to experiment an perfect it as far as I can

[south_oz]

LOL ok was a bit quick to think that I could just throw together a two cylinder engine within a few days out of spare parts , have made 6 crank shafts and every time I try to fire the engine up , the crank snaps in seconds , too much pressure on it lol

[watchdog]

How can it have too much pressure on it when it hasn't even got a load on it?

[south_oz]

just to much pressure on the crank , I had the two pistons connected , and the two coils are in push/pull set up ... the crack just snaps. either there is a weakness in the material or the cranks design ... trying out a few more alterations and thickness of the crank then hopefully it'll fix the problem

[Uncle Fester]

I strongly suggest that you first stick to the single cylinder system that works and put a load on it for pete's sake.
For all we know you have created something that uses very little energy but can not deliver any useful amount.

....like a clockwork that runs very fast

[south_oz]

I think that would be a waist of time at this stage , I dont think it would take much of a load on the alternator to slow it down to the point that it would be next to useless , I'v got the new crank finally steady and strong for the twin piston and everything else is put together for it out of bits an peaces from my previous engine designs . if two pistons isnt strong enough , then i'll try four if that isnt good enough then I'll try radial engine designs , ay I have nothing else to do day in and day out

[lsemmens]

You could set your pistons at exactly 180deg apart and use a single conrod. I can't see how the crank, which works on a single cylinder, would fail on a multiple cylinder design as the torque produced at each firing would still be the same, unless, you've hugely increased the compression ratio. There must be something fundametally flawed in your design, unless adjacent conrods are so close together that there is little material between the two.

[south_oz]

with this setup I have increased the movement of the pistons (a longer stroke) , it is setup like a flat boxer engine ,I am also using a single point on the crank for the connection of both piston rods and using push / pull , while one piston is pulling the other is pushing against the magnetic field .. when a piston is at tdc the field is reversed , and if you have ever played with 50mm (n48 I think .. 54 kg hold) magnets it has some force. I have made the crank 10mm thick with the strongest material I have on hand , after a few test there is no way of running this engine with out a very solid stand and thick base , I almost ripped of all the skin on fingers trying to hold the crank under power .. there was no way i could hold it at all

[Godzilla]

Where was the crank breaking?

Do you have pictures of the crank design and break point?

[south_oz]

it was breaking on the joint that I had , I had to print it in two peaces and use abs cement to glue them together , every time I have a failed print or part broken they are immediately recycled (granulated) .. the material too expensive to waist . I am ordering some titanium filament before the end of the month to compensate for any design weakness

[Godzilla]

Maybe a redesign of the actual joint where it structurally is stronger.

For example if its 2 halves overlapping at the joint you glue, you could redesign it so its a key type joint where a tab slots into a cutout, that way you wont need to glue it together.

Sort of like one part that slots into another like -=

That way you have the option of dismantling the parts or redesigning or replacing just one end if needed.

[south_oz]

thats how all my original cranks are designed , this one how ever was totally different design since it had two piston rods connected at the same point . it was also originally design for the v twin I was going to print out , but that needed a whole new body , heads , connectors to be printed out and I dont have enough material for that , so I compromised and used spare parts I had printed for the single piston engine to throw together to make a flat boxer engine ..

[south_oz]

well redesigned the crank , thats solid an holding together , decided to have it with both piston rods connected at different points , redesigned the piston rods . they needed to be bent near the top to be at the center of the piston , they have worked out well and strong , had to redesign the top of the case , the boxer design was just too unstable it kept breaking everything after two hours including cracking the case in several places , so now I am doing a v2 twin piston top of the case hopefully this one will work .. if not .. i'll go for the tried and tested radial