Buying A Chainsaw

[enf]

OK. I want a chainsaw that does everything, is reliable and easily maintained, will power through redgums or garden trees because it has a motor with v8 like mumbo and costs absolutely nothing....

zzzz....Oh! Sorry! I was dozing and dreaming.

Where was I? Oh yeah. So. I need a chainsaw that will trim (and by that I mean down to leaving a stump) some reasonably large garden trees. I intend to completely redo my yard. I HATE hiring things, and lets face it, I just like owning powered tools like every other bloke here. It doesn't have to be too large, but it DOES have to hang together and perhaps not have a label on it that says Made in some pissant backwater in China by some peons who received a bullet in the head on payday hidden underneath somewhere. A reliable but not too expensive machine, although I will spend extra to get what I like.

I have no doubt that many of you will know what I need.....cheers...

[gordon_s1942]

One critera to remember is the more chain and bigger the Bar, the more Drag there is on the motor.
Some years ago I bought a fairly cheap chain saw sharpener ($50?) that holds the bar and has an electric motor driving a disc to sharpen the teeth and that has paid for itself many many times.
I dont care how powerful a motor you have, a blunt chain with the wrong cut makes it less useful than an axe.

Also consider just how many times do you want to use such a devise for you to consider ELECTRIC, Hiring one or even getting someone in to do the job for you.

It may be just me but I believe the Law regarding petrol driven Chain Saws, Lawn Mowers, Whipper snippers etc is that for every 1 minute it works will take one HOUR of pulling, cleaning,fueling,clean the filter and spark plug (if you can find where the hell the spark plug spanner has been put THIS TIME !!!) then storing it away after use (if it did actually start).

Comparisons are under $300 is a Toy but for something that will work reliably start around $800 which is a lot for around 4 hours of use each year.

[enf]

One critera to remember is the more chain and bigger the Bar, the more Drag there is on the motor.
Some years ago I bought a fairly cheap chain saw sharpener ($50?) that holds the bar and has an electric motor driving a disc to sharpen the teeth and that has paid for itself many many times.
I dont care how powerful a motor you have, a blunt chain with the wrong cut makes it less useful than an axe.

Also consider just how many times do you want to use such a devise for you to consider ELECTRIC, Hiring one or even getting someone in to do the job for you.

It may be just me but I believe the Law regarding petrol driven Chain Saws, Lawn Mowers, Whipper snippers etc is that for every 1 minute it works will take one HOUR of pulling, cleaning,fueling,clean the filter and spark plug (if you can find where the hell the spark plug spanner has been put THIS TIME !!!) then storing it away after use (if it did actually start).

Comparisons are under $300 is a Toy but for something that will work reliably start around $800 which is a lot for around 4 hours of use each year.

It has a LOT of work to do. A LOT. And it will continue. But, the blade doesn't have to be huge.

[gordon_s1942]

We have found between 18 and 24 inch Bar seems to have cut well in both dry and 'wet' timber and not 'foul' up with sawdust.
Its also a good manageable length so you can work away without too much energy.
But if you have that much work to do, I strongly suggest you get a sharpener, my Son took that and a little generator out with him one time so he and his friends could sharpen their saws as needed.

[spook]

You need one of these, had one for the last few years, even though they are cheap, hasn't missed a beat. We have one from the the first link, it work great and the best is having two extensions on it, any more and it is hard to lift and control. But it prunes all the trees on the drive, orchard fruit/nut trees and anything else needing pruning.

[gordon_s1942]

I like the Oregon even though its the smaller motor as its a well known brand and parts are easy to get.

I am Glad your picking the one to buy.

[Uncle Fester]

I bought a homelite from Bunnings and I regret it.
I nearly get a heart attack trying to get the bastard to start.
Messing around with the 2 stroke petrol and oil and cleaning and sharpening... arrgh not my cup of tea.
...and by the time it finally got it runnining I could have cut the tree with a hand saw.
I love power tools too but I hate this chainsaw.


These days I just pull out all the garden trees/bushes (4 meter or less) in my garden with my car (a small SUV) and heavy ropes. I use then electric saws to take of the side branches (which go through the electric mulcher) and maintain the trunk for building pergolas or a pole for climbing plants.
I see no point in cutting trees and leaving the stump with roots behind.
The trick is to first soak the root area so muddy that you can chop some side running roots with a spade.
Afterwards you can use the hole straight away to plant something useful like a fruit tree.


My neighbour (who is a horticulturist) calls me when he wants something removed too and I get beer for that.
I find it very satisfying pulling things out with my SUV but of course you need vehicle access to the back yard or very long ropes and guides.
If you don't have an SUV, a friendly neighbour might

[VroomVroom]

Stihl are a very good reliable saw . if you have the $800 then buy one and sell it in a few years once the work is finished. i personally use a 16" bar because its lighter and easier to use and you can take down 30" trees if used wisely with wedges.
whatever you buy get a couple of spare chains and a 4l drum of bar oil , as you will use it up in a few months.

[Tiny]

+1 for Stihl, I have 2 that are 20 years old & still going strong, another I just bought for the big trees here.

I first bought a McCulloch chain saw when I moved here 21 years ago, by the end of 12 months I was so annoyed with it I went & bought my first Stihl, 025 Wood Boss with 16' bar, was so impressed with that a few months later I bought a 039 Farm Boss with 20"bar for the bigger trees.

Just bought a MS46 with 25" bar for the really big stuff, this thing cuts wood like it's on steroids.

Stihl = easy start, easy maintenance, long life & reliability & if you do have a rare problem they will fix it quickly from what I've heard.

The McCulloch is still sitting in the corner of the shed where I left it 20 years ago, I couldn't live with my conscience if I had sold it to some one or even gave it away. Pure frustration it was.

So I would suggest to go into a Stihl dealership & tell them what you are going to use the saw for & get their advice on exactly which one will suit your purpose & budget.

See reviews here,

Have a look at the range probably home owner range or cordless for your needs??

[shred]

Keep an eye out for big agricultural shows - sometimes Stihl offer some pretty amazing deals on their gear. I'm kicking myself for not going to Tassie's "AgFest" this year - not sure if I can hold out until next year's AgFest to buy a decent chainsaw.

[ol' boy]

Yep, +2 for Stihl

And that comes from a friend that owns "Jims Trees"
Another friend that owns every Stihl size from a climbing saw to MS880 with a 5ft bar
And a well known Melbourne Tree Carver

I have seen many other Chainsaws, but not many that work like day 1, 10 years down the track.
It really is a case of Buy Right once, and never worry about it again.

Probably other good and reliable brands (Husky), no doubt, but you don't see many Professionals using much else.
Then again, a lot of them get a good deal off Stihl, if they are turning saws over, i dont think the likes of Husky do that, hence why you see a lot of Stihls.

Have a look here:


Whole Range:

[Rick]

I swear by my 066 magnum, 1 spark plug in 10 years, good all rounder

[Tiny]

Good to see the Stihl fan club is alive on Austech.

BTW: if anyone does use Stihl saws, make sure you use Stihl 2 stroke oil, it runs cleaner than any of the others at the correct ratio.

[Rick]

BTW: if anyone does use Stihl saws, make sure you use Stihl 2 stroke oil, it runs cleaner than any of the others at the correct ratio.

+1 for that, ive always used it,very low smoke and hardly any smell,unlike a lot of tight arses that use cheap motor oil for their bar, I buy the 20 litre drum of chain oil, sticky as hell, but no bar burn or premature wear of the chain like ive seen with motor oil

[ol' boy]

I swear by my 066 magnum, 1 spark plug in 10 years, good all rounder

Now there is a commendation to buy a Stihl, Rick's still works, even after being piffed into the dam, then fished out

[Rick]

Now there is a commendation to buy a Stihl, Rick's still works, even after being piffed into the dam, then fished out

That is the truth, shit I cant believe you remembered that LOL, it was actually my 025, away fishing at Bronte, and it wouldnt start so I hurled it into the dam, one of my mates fished it out, and looked at it, and yelled "ya dickhead you didnt have the switch tuned on" removed the plug and drained the water and fuel, fresh fuel cleaned plug switch on 2nd pull and away it went, and to this day i'm still using it LOL

[LeroyPatrol]

lol

[LeroyPatrol]

Hi have a husky. It's not the smallest model but has an 18" bar instead of the 16" and only had maintenance issues like pull start rope broke and clutch spring broke. Only notice this when fixing rope. But I've had it for 25yrs. It's not gone out cutting firewood every winter but I'm sure it's up to the task.

Leroy

[lsemmens]

I was a tree lopper in a past life. For the big saws you cant go past stihl. For midsized saws, 12" - 24" we have used Shindaiwa day in, day our for years with little maintenance. Climbing saws, Echo have always served us well. Pole saws have been stihl. Interestingly enough, since I retired, I've owned 4 or 5 saws. My first one was a stihl cheapie and it only lasted about 12 months. (piston and rings died in a big way). Second one was a cheap chinese clone from my local hardware store (I wore that out in about 2 years - cheaper to buy a whole new saw than replace the drive sprocket) My third one was a cheap Chinese import which had an internal hemorrhage after about 6 months. My current saw is another cheapie from the local Hardware store and, so far, so good. I also have a cheap chinese combo unit as spook has listed. It runs well though the shaft (surprisingly for a chinese clone) is way too long for a brush cutter but great when pruning.

As has already been observed, A sharp chain is a must!!! For the amateur one of those saw sharpeners would be the best. If, you know what you are doing, you can get a better job done with a file or one of . This, at least runs off a car battery so is great when on the job. We used them for years. Just remember to ensure whatever sharpening method you choose, ensure that it is right for the size of chain.

Next is maintenance. When you finish for the day,
Pull the chain and cutter bar off, clean the saw, and the bar. Ensure that the lube oil is being pumped properly or your cutter bar will not last very long. Whilst cleaning the saw, check for wear on the drive sprocket and ensure that the chain-brake is working properly. Clean the air filter, sharpen you chain, and re-assemble ready for the next day's work. Remember, to ensure that you dress your bar, on average, about every time you replace the chain. Easiest way to check the bar is to run your fingers over the edge, if you can feel a ridge, the bar needs dressing. If that ridge builds up too quickly you must also ensure that the bar is getting adequate oil. Our best check every morning was when we'd first fire the saw for the day is to hold the tip of the bar near the ground (NEVER LET THE CHAIN TOUCH ANY DIRT - unless you are prepared to replace the chain and possibly the bar, too) and watch for oil spray on the ground as you rev the engine.

ONE MORE IMPORTANT Thing: Chainsaws can do a lot of damage - especially to body parts. Always wear, safety glasses and hearing protection, along with (ideally) Chaps which, if something goes wrong, will stop the chain before it hits you. If you are going to be dropping large trees, I would recommend getting professional help. I've seen too many "accidents" because of ignorance.

[weirdo]

Hi have a husky. It's not the smallest model but has an 18" bar instead of the 16" and only had maintenance issues like pull start rope broke and clutch spring broke. Only notice this when fixing rope. But I've had it for 25yrs. It's not gone out cutting firewood every winter but I'm sure it's up to the task.

Leroy

same here
my husky would be close to 20 years old and it always starts first go